jdtravers

Definitely mark it and stay under that mark like previously mentioned. Also, angle it back from the front to rear. This helps get it away from the trigger finger. I put a slight radius/round the front of the BHO, this way you don't feel the edges of the BHO against the finger. Jack

The single silicone spring steel spring is easier to bend and shape it the way you need so it will not fall off the hammer leg. With the JTE spring you only need one spring to maintain its shape instead of three and the stock spring is made of spring steel, not silicone spring steel, big difference in quality. Read the link and you will see how to adjust the spring for light strikes, if it is an issue. Jack

Here is the link for bending/shaping the main spring. The whole purpose of the spring being made out of silicon spring steel, is that it can be formed to however the operator wants it, light, medium, or heavy strike and the legs will bend out and stay in shape so it will not fall off the hammer legs. I will pre-bend the spring if the customer wants me to and ship the spring directly to the customer. Jack http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/91421-jte-main-spring-adjustment/

Didn't see the .223 Build. That shotgun is about three years old. It still has the original sliding safety on it:) Jack

Damn, the more I look, it is all a lie, "Custom" Saiga Hand guard (not), US made Custom Mag release (not), straightened trigger (not), etc! Amazing. Jack

Yeah, that lends a lot of credibility doesn't it! But there again, there are a lot of people who don't have a clue what a forcing cone is. Jack PS: Just looked at the obviously welded and filled holes. Yea, I guess with the Allan Screws it is filled, but the bottom hole leaves a gaping impression

If you are using modern powders, get a bore snake and be done with it. Most people put more wear and abuse on their barrels from cleaning them. Especially stainless, all it needs is the occasional bore snake run through it, period! Jack

Wish you and yours the best Tom. Jack

Very nice!! Jack

Small ProMag was/is a 10 rounder. Jack

Use the industrial velcro. Jack

There is a reamer and tap for every choke manufactuered, I use Mansons. You DO NOT single point cut the threads on a lathe, it is not cost effective to do so. You could, but why would you when you can use a tap which is made for that purpose! I use RemChokes for all my shotguns that get chokes and if the customer wants to add a muzzle brake with chokes, you just open up the inside of the brake with a boring bar and silver solder the brake on the barrel and use an extension to remove/install the chokes. This is the pretty much the standard that has been used for a few years now.

220 is pretty much the industry standard for finish preparation. Anything finer will not allow proper adherence!! Best way to prep? Aluminum oxide blast with 80 grit!! Jack

If the muzzle brake caused a "Point of Aim" shift, then it must be poking you in the eye somehow. Obviously you mean a "Point of Impact" shift. How does it group at 100 yards? Is it tight or shotgunned? Just wondering if you altered your original front sight during the installation process of the brake. If the sights have not changed and you are using the same ammunition, the ONLY reason for that much of an impact shift is the bullet is skipping off the brake somewhere. Use a flashlight and see if there is a very fine line of copper trace inside the comp/brake. It will just be

Are you wanting the JP Spring Kit? I don't believe there is a spring kit for the Timney. The ones I have worked with in the past were a sealed/drop in unit. I use the JP Adjustable Triggers/Hammers and it offers three different spring rates for various pull weights. Jack http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/triggers-bottom-metals/trigger-parts/trigger-springs/ar-15-enhanced-reliability-spring-kits-prod32318.aspx

Yep, the original design had wings on the sides and was fast as hell for the stick mags. But the market tends to lean towards using the drums, so I never produced it in large quantities. I really don't understand the infatuation with the drums. I have one for testing, but I would never use it in any situation that I can possibly think of. But, each to their own, that's the nice thing about having a choice! Jack

Yeah, it may well be. I need to go get the Rockwell Hardness tester from down in Florida and bring it back here and refresh my knowledge base and for testing/checking. I have been doing all my own heat treating lately and I like having that control over it. Hate sending parts out not knowing if they are coming back to me with the required specifications. Jack

I could be wrong about the op rod. I made an assumption, as all my op rods (416 heat treated) and 99% of aftermarket op rods are stainless. Will check tomorrow and verify. There really isn't a reason to chrome the op rod if it was just a basic carbon steel. Jack

The Russian Steel is a little bit of their own design/making from the foundary, but here are the industry standards, and they can apply to Soviet Bloc Firearms as well. Stainless: 416R for most barrels and you will also see 300 grade series stainless for other components. One has magnetic qualities and one does not. 4140 or 4145 which are commonly referred to as Chrome Moly, one has more carbon in it than the other (4145 Mil Spec) and this is close enough to the steel used in the carrier/bolt, etc. The carrier/bolt/sight block etc. in the Saiga are not stainless. The op rod IS

Where do you get the designation of: Type I or Type II sights/brakes? Been around for a few days, but this is not a standard which I am familiar with. Jack

Yeah, inquiring minds want to know! Pauly dug this hole for himself. Where all the egotistical, maniacal social media ranting came from, well that is something else all together. Anyone who runs a legitimate business, or has the BASIC knowledge on what it takes to run a business would have never offered the bolt polishing service at the price that was offered. UNLESS, you have 2-3 minimum wage guys running the polishing wheels for you. At best you are making minimum wage because of the time it takes to polish the bolt/carrier to a bright finish. If you charged the real/actual

I need ONE more of the older Firdbird Mid Length Muzzle Brakes with or without the Micky Mouse ears!! I need it for my gun. If you guys have one more laying around the shop, don't care if it is beat to crap, used or whatever, I need it. Jack

I had three of my Saigas finish in the top ten; Al Zitta, Joe Cuccia and Kay Miculek who also is the top Lady for the match!!!!! Jack

It is a standard policy in the industry, by reputable gunsmiths, to give a written invoice and/or estimate (quote). It serves both the customer and the business to have it in writing and no work should be performed that is not on the invoice without rewriting the quote/invoice with approval from the customer. If a gunsmith has to give an estimate, then they probably don't know what they are doing to start with. I NEVER perform any work on a customer's firearm unless they have a copy of all work to be performed and a final pricing. I don't care what was discussed on the phone or d