TheGlobule

WASR-10/63 are assembled from mid '80 parts made for the military, not for the civilian market. They still suffer from common flaws like misaligned front sights or gas tubes. Not very nice looking but good and solid military grade AK guns. You can find one in the $500-600 range and they are ready to go have fun with.

Consensus is on Texas and Tapco because of price. The adjustable trigger is much better but cost more (I have the Tapco on another gun). Some had trouble over time because they did not properly put Loctite on all the adjusting screws and they moved out. You can't go wrong with any of the three mentioned above though.

Great news, how can I add one to the order I already have?

What can I say? The HAMMR rest may have had some play in it. Since I just put new sights on the gun, I'll try it again and post some pics of the groups I'll get.

Light on shotgun only and for close range only with small light burst to "identify" and "blind" target. Remote switch is a must have. It takes but a second to shoot twice at "the light" and hit what's behind it (that would be your face behind a long gun) Since you should have no business shooting with a rifle in the dark (for self defense), there is no reason to put a light on one (especially if you have a Saiga 12). Light on handgun as back-up only in case you loose ability to use your other hand for your flashlight. There is a very good booklet on night gun fights written by Ken Good

I think the one GilbertsGuns has for Saiga 12 accept all attachments (reason why I paid the premium price to get them).

Oh good, another FCG to add to the list. That's a Red Star Arms FCG any known 'issues' with those? Yes, it is a Red Star product. I had no issues with it so far. I set it up for a two stages with a very light initial take up and small and clean brake on the second stage.

AK-47 Adjustable Military Trigger System available from Blackjack Buffers. This FCG is fully adjustable in single stage or double stage mode and counts as 3 US parts. I put it on my WASR-10/68 and love it. Make sure you read the adjusting instructions and follow them in the proper order. The trigger can be adjusted for easy bump fire as well though I do not recommend it for safety reasons.

Thanks for correcting me, I did not have to replace the disconnector, I thought about buying a better one but in fact, I didn't (damn memory). I just polished a few parts in the right place and installed an overtravel stop (the one with the allen screw in the ejector bloc). On the other end, I know for a fact that Sig recoil springs look sometime very much alike but are not the same. Have you checked their reference?

I did not start by "fixing" the gun, I did improve its trigger pull which has nothing to do with FTE or FTF. Since I had tried Glocks before, I knew what to do right away and especially filling the tip of the trigger safety to put it at the same level as the trigger when depressed so it would not dig in my trigger finger. It's only after I tried the gun and had FTE/FTF that I replaced the recoil spring which did solved the problem. All of this has nothing to do with the accuracy of the gun. The bullet is long gone off the barrel when the breech unlocks and the slide starts to move back. T

Here is some personal experience, I let you make your own opinion... I bought a Glock 34 (9 mm) to replace my Sig P228 in local IDPA matches because I thought it would make me faster on the first shot as well as follow up shots (and it did). What you should know is that when I bought the P228, I went to the store with a mind set for a Glock (as a CCW) and tried a few at the store range. None of the Glock was fitting my hand well and the trigger was hurting my finger after a little while. The store owner had me try one of his personal P228 and it fit my hand much better (had Hogue rubbe

Okay.... I went to the range to try the new gun and took my other Saiga 12 (the 4 holes converted and polished one) with one 10 rds AGP and one 13 rds Surefire mag as well. First off, the factory 5 rounds mag would not lock in the new, of the box, gun (the mag release would not engage at all). I removed the tread protector and put on the SGM forearm (922r) and tried the high cap. mags. both locked in the gun so I was back in business... I first tried the Surefire topped with Winchester "Universal" 7 1/2 bird shot Wall-Mart value pack. Shot five rounds and FTE at every round. I was kind

Mine is a four holes as well and had some crap in one of the port (looked like metal shavings). Easy way to check the port is to use a dental pic (one in metal). You should not have FTE with your gun after polishing the hammer and bolt/bolt carrier in the proper places.

My four gas ports Saiga 12 with polished bolt and carrier with or without a BlackJack buffer installed cycles the Winchester Wall-Mart value pack 7 1/2 bird shot from 5 rounds factory, 10 rounds AGP and 13 rounds Surefire mags when the gas tappet is clean (add me to your list). I am going to the range this afternoon with a new (unmodified Saiga 12 with three gas ports) to check it out before conversion and will let you know.

Brown Bear is good ammo and is cleaner than most others. Go for it...

Yes, Some grinding is required to clear a screw and the bloc will have to be drilled and tapped to be attached with screws on the sides at the old FCG axis location (originaly, the ACE bloc is secured at the bottom by the grip nut)

I am intrigued. How is your piston different than the stock gas piston ? I have a 3 hole vodka special that I have gotten to work fairly well after opening the gas ports with the 5 rd mags, but I can't get it to cycle more than 50% when I slap on the Surefire mag. If your piston will help quite a bit, I would love to try it rather than pulling the gas tube off again to do more filing. Go on the KA web site and look at the pics of it. You will notice that the tappet is not flat like the factory one.

I would like bigger holes and front treaded part to be kind of narrow so I could still put the muzzle brake / door breacher from Chaos on top of it and use your device as a lock nut for it... Man, this is getting good...

Before I go on with a gun suggestion, let me make a quick observation about the slide release being hard (that is an easy fix by the way). It is best to rack the slide to release it for at least two reasons: 1. "One" muscle memory for loading a round, releasing the slide and clearing jams. 2. In a gun fight situation, your hands can become dripping wet in a few seconds and trying to release the slide with a little button may not work very well (racking the slide is a sure thing). Also, hands and fingers are very often injured in any confrontation and even more in gun fights. Releasing the

+1 It puzzles me that some may consider this an "upgrade" By all means, it looks like an expensive "downgrade" to me...

+1 Just like a vented machine gun barrel

What? Really? I might as well try it! Yup! Here is a cheap replacement of the Winchester WAA12F114 if we really want to use this wad but the standard WAA112 is made for loads between 1 and 1-5/8 oz (optimum is 1-1/8 oz) so I believe it to be better suited for most loads. Link to cheap replacement: Claybuster wad

Gun goes click... Tap the mag, rack the slide, squeeze the trigger, bang! Failed cartridge stayed about 1 second in the gun after going click. Gun goes click again instead of bang... Rip the mag from the gun, insert fresh mag, rack the slide, squeeze the trigger, bang! Gun goes click again instead of bang... I really have a bad day, haven't I? Transfert gun to weak hand, draw back-up weapon (gun, knife...) and back to work... Don't give a rat ass about why gun goes click, just make it go bang again... That's my story and I'll stick to it...

The WAA12F114 wad is obsolete and is only for 1oz 1/4 loads. Try the WAA12 instead.

What is your order number? ev-6367 Thanks I am only 2000 orders in front of you but I'll let you know when I get mine...