L5K

Why do you think this can't be tactically re-loaded?? What do you mean by that? I don't see why you just couldn't cram more rounds in the tubes. he refering to the fact that its bottom ejected. without a closer look at the action it would be hard to determin if you could just drop a round in the chamber, while the slides back. its a null point for me. IMO a tactical reload on a shotgun is when you top off the tube without emptying it. Just like on a rifle. Change the mag before it's completely empty, still one in the chamber. To me if the chamber and magazine is empty an

Check out the Sig 516 and 716. The ONLY AR's I'd ever buy. Yeah I've seen these, but I like the 556 a lot better. More AK than AR. The carrier and bolt are straight up copies almost.

I am amazed. Someone has actually come out with a design that is functional first, then tacticool second. I MUST KNOW THE PRICE! This will probably replace the Sig 556 as my next purchase....I'll never own a 5.56 rifle at this rate...

I'm not sure exactly how it does work as I've never had any warnings, but if the bar is just white then you don't have any.

I have heard that with the TT-33 Tokarev pistols you have to be careful, as the hotter 7.62 x 25 that was produced later for the SMG's will tear the pistols apart. Apparently the CZ52 is fine with the hotter ammo though. Never fired either, but I do want a CZ52.

That pistol permit must be a state thing, because its not required here, handguns are just a NICS check like rifles or shotguns. That's exactly how it works here in Iowa. I pay 11 dollars to the Sheriff's office and get a permit to acquire pistols. They do the NICS check and give me a permit. That permit is good for a year on as many guns as I can afford. It does vary by state on how they handle these type of things.

You have no pistol grip. You should be good with any pistol grip though. Are you going to use a muzzle device?

Shop on forums. Buy used parts. Do all work yourself, refinish with a 12 dollar can of Alumahyde 2. I did my Saiga in 5.45, total conversion and it cost me about 370 for the rifle at a gun show and a little over 200 maybe for parts for it. I bought everything on forums except my trigger guard with rivets, bullet guide with rivet, grip nut and new mag latch pin. I bought them at K-Var. Gas tube should be like 15 bucks tops on a forum, FSB and Gas Block were....maybe 40 bucks each? K-Var furniture used on a forum was 60 bucks. I used a standard retainer for the lower handguard for 10 bucks

It's an AK. Get what works best for you and don't worry about which one is mathematically superior. Shoot for minute of man, not minute of angle. That said, I'd stick with either setup and the stock sights.

The Tapco G2 is one of the best AK FCG on the market. It gives you compliance parts, and works very simply and effectively. It could be argued that the RSA adjustable units are "better" but imo, they are overpriced and too complicated for a trigger on a rifle like an AK...

I hate the polymer coating. If you handle the rounds at all before shooting, it will develop rusty fingerprints on the cases themselves rather quickly. Lacquer never did this. I would rather clean lacquer coating than have rusty ammunition...

If you want to make a Saiga more reliable, convert it to an AK configuration. It immensely simplifies the trigger mechanism, AND makes the trigger feel like one should.

Go very slow and fit it to both of the steel ones. Your rifle should accept any cheap steel military magazine you could ever find. Then if you need to go a bit further to get it to accept the ones with plastic lugs you could, but I wouldn't bother personally. I run just military surplus magazines through my rifle, and I had fit it with just a few of them. It now accepts every military surplus magazine I tried to put in it with no work at all. Also, it's an AK, a slight bit of slop with some magazines is perfectly normal and desirable to ensure it will work with any magazines. Some will

I dont see how that will work without major distortion of the "tabs" that the latch resides in. My pin in particular is perfectly flush with those "tabs", once in place leaving no material to flare or mushroom. A longer pin of some sort and i can see doing it but i dont know if i would try it with this short of a pin. Yeah, my pin was definitely longer than the width of the tabs on the magazine release... You might look at getting a new pin from K-Var or some other place that sells them. I got a new pin from K-Var and it had plenty of material sticking out each side. Before that tho

Was the dealer trying to sell your friend one?

If you have a bench vise you can put that pin in the rifle, then squeeze in in the vise to "stamp" the ends of it out larger than the hole it goes into. Just don't get overzealous on the pressure or you'll have to work your magazine release a bit to loosen it back up.

I have never heard of Hoppes being bad for chrome. I use Hoppes in all my rifles, chromed or not.

Wow, finetip definitely. That looks awesome.

+1, the finger grooves kill the deal for me. The guy generally makes decent products, so maybe he will listen to public outcry and COPY THIS: +1 more I don't even like the one finger groove on standard M16/AR15 grips. Give me the old smooth ones please.

I wouldn't worry about it. The chrome is harder than the punch from the cleaning kit. With the texture on the chrome in the gas block being somewhat rough, it's possible that you actually left behind a line from the punch actually being worn down when you scraped it along the chrome. Sort of like chalk on a sidewalk, but with slightly harder materials.

I've fired a friend's CZ82, it's a good shooting little pistol. I somewhat prefer the Makarov though. I'm currently looking for a Polish P64 (also 9mm Mak) for a carry pistol. It's slightly smaller than those two. The CZ82 has the advantage in the location of the magazine release being familiar for most American shooters. Also the CZ82 has polygonal rifling instead of standard land and groove rifling. not that either is necessarily better, just different.

Might be thinking of the "rods from god" stuff I've seen. Basically the concept is that a satellite in orbit releases a "rod" about the size of a telephone pole and made of some dense metal. By the time it falls from orbit to the ground it hits with the same amount of force as a very small nuclear blast, but in a much more environmentally friendly impact.

The vented gas tube was used on older AK's that did not have vents in the gas block. There is no difference in function if you have no vents at all, vents in the tube, vents in the block or vents in both. The vents do serve, in my observations, to help keep the action behind the piston head cleaner by giving some debris an escape outlet. This is all the vents do, as the rifle will function exactly the same with or without them. All gas pressure is lost as soon as the piston leaves it's resting place in the block. The pressure is either forced past the piston head because it is smaller than the

These things are so awesome. It's just a solid metal slug. All the fire and smoke are because it is moving so fast that the air around it catches fire... The only problem is you need a nuclear reactor to power the damn things. I want a shoulder fire railgun so bad...

Not sure about the rest of your problems, but for the BHO installation..... Put a twist-tie through the spring, then put both ends through the slot the BHO lever sticks out of. Install the trigger and disconnector, using the twist tie to get the pin through the spring. Remove the twist tie, and install the plate, then use the punch from your cleaning kit to put the spring on top of the BHO plate thing. Easy.... If that makes sense.....