hutchsaiga

I was under the assumption he also wanted to use over 10rnd mags

The real question here is why? What bothers you about just putting a in a saiga bullet guide and keeping the third rivet?

Wow! Awesome post TX and awesome website as well Thanks for taking your time to do these tests and post results. Ps. Very very very jealous of you're collection of Russian optics! I'll give you my info so you can put me down as the beneficiary;)!!

No buttplate or sling loop?

And get a nice leather holster!!

True story. Even steel on cars doesn't quite seem like steel, and were I'm from new vehicles rust faster than bare steel on a ship. Im in the market for a wrangler now. But I'm going early TJ:) I just love the 4.0 to much to get one with that chryco v6 abomination in it.

Polly want a cracker?

Evidence for you

If you use a muzzle us made muzzle brake You will have 3 parts with your mags and 1 with your handguard. And be complaint You will have to use a US muzzle brake or you won't be complaint. But..... You should still convert the rifle to its true and intended form

Ultimak and aimpoint do;) hands down

Nice work. You got the parts from markw I take it? I doubt you bent the barrell.it may have flexed slightly but they are thick and very hard. How did it shoot when you took it out? The ak74 gas tube works perfectly on my rifle do I think that should solve your issue. I got mine from markw as well

It may be semi collectible but don't feel guilty about shooting it normally. Just don't drive over it or let it rust;)

Barrels measure very close in diameter, in two different spots. I see .594" and .573" on the factory Saiga barrel. .596" and .574" on the new barrel. Could very well be a difference in coating thickness. All of those numbers are fore and aft of the gas blocks. The picture is deceiving for sure. Thanks mullet. That's what I figured

how did u get the metal to look like that, its awesome If I had to guess. I'd say 600grit sandpaper Not a bad guess hutchsaiga, It was 220 grit. I just lightly sanded everywhere in a back to forth motion. If you dont mind my asking. What made you go with a birdcage over the more traditional slant brake?(well traditional to Romy AKM like your is cloned of at least)

They look damn close to me. Mind sticking a Mic on em mullet?

I just carefully position mine on the bump. It has worked to push it all around. Just thread the tool in very slowly until you make firm contact, keeping aligned while you do

Is that the one that is kind of a plate those goes between the pistol grip and the receiver? If so, those provide a little more rigidity to the receiver at the PG nut hole, which is another positvie

isn't the gas piston a bitch to replace? are there any good universal US made followers or floor plates you'd suggest? . Piston is pretty easy. Just make sure you measure first and thread the new one do it is the same length as factory. Drill out dimple, unthread, thread on new one and drill and pin it. Staying 14mm is probably a good a idea if the barrel is threaded already. Good, functional, brakes in that thread are slant brake, tapco slot brake, and battle comp. the first two being your cheapest options

Mines all in a mix of 50cal and 20 and 40mm surplus ammo cans with desiccant scattered throughout.

Everyone's beef with it is the weight.

So with the Homeland Security contract for 450 million rounds of .40 S&W JHP; splain to me how the price didn't come down Lucy? 1911 I thought our government agencies could only use FMJ?...so wth with JHP huh? No sir, our military can only use FMJ as per the Geneva Convention. Government Agencies intent on murdering American citizens can use JHP. Hope that clarifies. 1911 I have a close friend who is an armorer currently in Afghanistan. And this is partially true but also partially untrue. Our military is using massive amounts of expanding ammunition technically out

My opinion is they are all junk. The trs 25 and primary arms micro are the best under $100 sights to mount on an ultimak. Absolutly no question in that Aimpoint aimpoint ampoint, wait for it... one more time, aimpoint T1-h1-r1 are all ideal for the ultimak. Although I don't think you'd need NV capability

how did u get the metal to look like that, its awesome If I had to guess. I'd say 600grit sandpaper

Are you talking about using the rifle without a trigger guard? Becuase that's the way your post is worded. Ilike chili said the trigger guard is not a 922r part, but using a rifle without one, that's pretty dumb don't you think?

You are going to need too take the paint off the area around the hole, and somewhere else for Your ground as well Welding holes is pretty straight forward. Find a 1mm piece of steel to get the hang of it first(like you said earlier) your heat won't have to be all that high but you'll need to have you're wire speed fairly fast. Start in the inside edge of the hole and work around in a circular motion,around the inside edge of the circle, if you have your wire sped fast enough, you should have a sufficient plug to grind down flat. Make sure you Try on a scrap piece of steel first though, a