Gunfixr

Like Bob has said, there's nothing wrong with the internal block. I've used both. I do personally prefer the weld on back plate, but it's primarily aesthetics. I will say that the weld on back plate, when done right by recutting the end of the receiver to angle the stock down slightly, looks even better than the internal block, which sends the stock straight away from the receiver. Depending on your sight setup, and your individual physique, it may work better also. The new Magnolia internal block appears to have this angle. Also, I understand it will require no fitting. It's worth a

I use it over sandblasted metal often, and it's been fine. Blast with sand or aluminum oxide, though, not glass beads. The rougher surface will be better. I cheat, and bake it on, as I don't want to wait two weeks. One hour at somewhere between 150-170 degrees, and it's GTG. I've done a few of their template patterns also. They work, but the templates are not reuseable, despite what they say. You gotta clear coat the job, because the different colors will all have a different sheen, and sand lightly (very lightly) the color edges because there will be visible and felt edge ridges. I ac

After watching the posts on Arfcom since June, I oredered on in December, and received it in early January. I planned on using it on my FAL, and if it worked well, getting another one. It's supposed to be rated to handle a 375 H&H Magnum. I was sorely disappointed. The dot blinks out for almost a full 3 seconds every time I fired the rifle. I was going to send it back, but didn't want to deal with the pain in the ass sending something you order back, and decided to try it on my Ruger 10/22 instead. It works on that fine. Seems a bit much for that rifle, but oh, well, it's done now.

Mostly, I don't bother removing the barrel. My lathe is long enough to chuck up the barreled receiver. It would be easier to do the feed ramp stuff and the extractor notch stuff with the barrel out, but I get it done. Maybe one day, if I can get some more shop room, I'll set up the press equipment to remove barrels.

Thanks for the info, Ronswin and Wakal. I have the S12 for defensive and 3-gun purposes. I'm going to just install that tube I had laying around, probably permanently(it's not a Remchoke). It's an IM tube from some import gun that I cut the barrel on, I haven't found any others like it, but I'm thinking that for my purposes I won't need any other choke. I have a nice O/U with choke tubes for trap/skeet and/or hunting. I think the POI shift is partly the alignment of the petals, and partly the collar. If the taper bored into the collar doesn't run true with the threads, then as the coll

I've ordered from them before with no problems. I just ordered from them the other day, and have received notification that my order has shipped, so we'll see. BTW, what I ordered wasn't available from too many places, and it was considerably cheaper than the few other places that had it.

I had a PolyChoke on my first S12, but on the next one I think I'm doing something different. I also noticed that the POI wandered around, especially if you changed the setting. I could change it, and then go back, and it would still sometimes be different. I was thinking of installing an IM tube I had laying around, and just leaving it. With Wakal saying he uses an IM for everything, I'm really thinking on this. My only question for Wakal is this: do you also get good results with slugs through the IM tube? Are they just the hollow based Foster type slugs, or something else?

Since I actually designed the plug, I'll explain exactly what it was designed for. When I bought my S12 (what would now be the first one), it was a 19" barreled gun w/4 ports. It would cycle the low brass elcheapo shells, but they just sort of trickled out the side and landed at your feet. I wanted this better, and wanted to be able to change the settings manually, without tools, as I wanted to use the gun in 3-gun comp. I also changed the end where it meets the piston (puck), to keep the gun cleaner, and more efficiently direct the gas to the piston, as I felt it could work better. I made m

Man, Nailbomb, that's good. I usually take the gas tube off first, then mount it as deep as possible in a large vise. So deep in the vice jaws that the sight will only barely clear the jaws coming out. A reasonable sized hammer and a good solid punch will take it right out this way. It's very hard to properly support the side of the tube end with it still on the gun. It makes the job easy enough to make it worth taking the tube off.

The angled part is simple. When using a Tromix weld on back plate, the proper way is to angle the rear end of the receiver 2-3 degrees so that the stock angles down slightly, like the original, and so that your eye lines up correctly to the sights. The Ace internal block is straight, and cutting the angle on the receiver won't change how it sits, so the stock ends up high, leaving the gun too low. This new block fixes that. For anybody who doesn't want, or can't angle the receiver and weld on a back plate, this is the way to go. Mkaes it more of a DIY job. Sorry bigdick, it's true. I've

I've put Polychokes permanently on barrels at 18 1/4", and on a 4 port gun, it only involves opening the ports up about .010-.020" max to get it running 100% with elcheapo shells. The Poly choke is a little shorter than the Cutts, but not a whole lot. BTW, the choke on the end of the Cutts won't count for barrel length since it unscrews. The only way to get it to count it to permanently attach that, too.

I TIG weld them, then dress them smooth. I suppose, if you were good with a MIG welder, it could be done that way, but it would be harder than TIG. Carbon Arc is a cutting process, BTW, not a welding together process.

A lot of what constitutes "constructive possession" has to do with ease of assembly. Let's face it, if we're not really worried about doing it right, just getting it done, any halfwit with a small punch, hammer, and channel lock pliers can get an AR barrel on in somewhat less than an hours time. Pressing out the lock pin and barrel from an AK style receiver, however, involes somewhat more in both skills and tooling to get done. So, since I don't have an official letter to this effect, I would personally say that more than likely, a Saiga barrel uninstalled, at any length, probably isn't "co

Hhmmmm........................

I ordered a bunch of stocks and folding mechanisms around the Jan 2. Well into Feb., I had customers complaining, since their guns weren't finished. I was waiting on the Ace parts to finish. One customer called them and they told him he could order his parts and have them the next day. I was pissed. I called Ace myself and asked them how I could place an order a month ago, and not have it, and my customer could place an order and have it overnight. Their answer? If I placed an order, it went in line. If I placed an order that I wanted overnight or second day, they shipped it overnight or

If you have one of the "vodka specials" with only 2 ports, the gas plug will not overcome that. I have tried it, it still needs enough ports. It'll need at least one more port, preferably two.

Yes, they can.

My wife cooks some up every so often, she loves it. I don't much care for it. I'll eat what she fixes, but I'm not much for "gritty" type foods (don't eat grits either). I'd just as soon have rice. To each their own.

We got 2 of them here at the shop. They are quite long.

That wasn't my idea for this gun. From my observation, the gas plug adjusts the amount of gas that hits the piston, and to some extent, the amount of pressure also. Therefore, a bleed off wouldn't directly affect the system except to bleed the pressure off after it has done the job. More pressure from a heavier loaded round would still beat the gun up. I'm supposing that the M-60 uses a long piston system, as opposed to the short piston system used by the S12. In a long piston system, pressure will continue to accelerate the piston until the bullet leaves the barrel, so the bleed off hole re

I actually already have such an idea, had it for awhile now, just haven't had time to make a prototype. There are a few guns that use a self-regulating system of varying types. It's based on one of those. The gun is rather long out of production now.

It's interesting you should mention that. I've had an idea for awhile now to put a rifled barrel in an S12, just haven't had the time to pursue it.

The gas plug will more efficiently direct the gas that the piston is getting, but it won't give the piston more gas. It may solve your problem, it may not. I haven't tried it yet on a 3 port gun, so can't say.

Ok, Pedal2Alloy originated the idea first. Of course, I didn't come here until late 2007, so I never saw that thread. Never saw C&S Metalwerkes thread either until someone linked it after I posted mine. Anyway, here it is, available now.

That's cool. I guess not everybody wishes they went ahead and did something, but I think you got what I mean. I didn't make it to produce either, I just made one for myself. So many people wanted one, and so many of my friends were prodding me to "go for it", that I just decided to try it. I only made somewhere between 40-60 myself. I lost the job at the machine shop, and was going to just let them go. Mike D had gotten a couple, as he thought that it might solve his drum problem, them not quite keeping up with the gun using heavy loads. He was kind of upset at first thinking I was quitting th