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Fourteen. Mostly Finnish WW2 reworked M-1891 long rifles, but I've got a M-39, a M-91/30 PU sniper rifle, and an antique-reciever M-27 heavy barrel with a brand-new-unfired-shiny bore.

 

I freakin love 'em. But I really don't go for the sporterizing. Too much history and too many folks who've unwittingly chopped up super rare pieces for deer guns.

 

And they're insanely rugged. Aside from the trigger sear, I'm of the opinion they pretty much cannot be broken in any way.

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i wish I could learn more about them... seems hard to believe they sell "super rare" pieces for 69 bucks, though....

 

thats what mine cost....

 

M91/30....

 

its nice.. but I wouldnt call it super rare, all mismatched and all...

 

 

:smoke:

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www.7.62x54r.net

www.mosin-nagant.net

 

The thing is many people unknowingly assume that Finnish prototypes and small-run varieties are the same as the three-million-made-a-year russian wartime models. Any given Izhevsk M-91/30 is an unexceptional rifle among the other 2,999,999, and probably *is* only worth $60. A M-28/30 Finn, on the other hand, is the same action, but only a couple thousand were ever made. Kinda like the way small-factory late-war K98K mausers are pricey compared to Czech M-24s.

 

They're in general still fairly low priced, because there's only started to be an interest in 'em in the last five years or so, and few folks realize if they've got a rare one or not.

 

But if you find something rare, and you want to sell it, you can command quite a price for the rarer versions.

Edited by Vaarok
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  • 2 weeks later...

I got about 30 rounds of albanian ammo from the gunshop for free awhile back, and tried some of it in my M-1927 restoration-project rifle... I managed a two inch group (cloverleaf with a flyer) iron sighted, at 200m. No rifle rest, just sitting on my ass out in the hayfield shooting up a pizza box.

 

Firsly, damn I love these rifles, and secondly, never underestimate a Finnish mosin with iron sights.

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MN38 came yesterday BEAUTIFUL!!!!!! If anyone is looking for one SOG is the man! It came all cleaned up! NO SHIT. NO COSMOLINE! She's as pretty as can be. These are 'arsenal refurbished' and this one is Ivesck arsenal with the last date stamped on the barell (under the wood is 99 the manufacture date is 1944, the only beef is that the new CAI importer marks are STONE UUGLY. I found that if you use a toothbrush to cold blue the punch marks (yes the whole importer BS is a series of punch marks like it was done with some kind of computerized center punch) and then hammer down the metal that the punckmarks raised, it looks a lot better. The range is down untill mid-may (BUMMER) so I am sitting here with a new "toy" and 800 rounds of Czeck silvertip GOING CRAZY :cryss::cryss::cryss::cryss::cryss::cryss::cryss::cryss:

 

 

G O B

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  • 2 weeks later...

www.gunboards.com

6 91/30s, 4 M44s-(Polish,Romanian,2 Russian) 1 Finn 28/30 (sold), 1 M39B (sold).

I might just like these.

C&R license was the most expensive thirty bucks I've ever spent. You think you're addicted now, wait till all you have to do is give someone an item number on the phone and wait for it to get to your house. "gee, its only $59.00, I can get one" turns into clearing out a room in your house to fit all your guns.

 

My favorite is my '43 Tula former PU sniper I got for $85. With Hungarian silvertip I can shoot one inch groups at 100 yds-Iron sights. I have had others that are lucky to get a 6" group at 100.

My M44s are giggle guns. Load some current production in the chamber, pull the trigger, see the beachball size flash and giggle.

I also put an ATi scope mount on a '33 Ishevsk arsenal 91/30 with a Bushnell 3x9 and wrapped it in Burlap for a pseudo PE sniper look. Its a sub MOA rifle.

post-583-1115173025_thumb.jpg

Edited by danny boy
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  • 7 months later...

My 91/30 shoots 18' high! Love the gun, but it was shooting 18"high and 12" to the right. It seems these were sighted in with the bayonet on, as it was a front line weapon, and they were to leave the bayonet fixed. The front sight was easy enough to drift for center (front sight moves opposite of the direction you want to move the impact). However the vertical adjustment requires a longer front sight pin. Too cold for more rangework, will get back to this in march or april!

 

G O B

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Why scope it? I have shot iron sights all my life and still only own 2 rifles that are scoped. The sights on my mosin are fine enough that I am able to shoot under 3 inch groups at 200 m, and thats fine by me. If you are going to hunt with the rifle might I suggest you try a 200 gr nosler partition over VV 550. I don't remember the charge weight but it is listed in the VV manual. It aproaches 2600 ft/sec and really packs a punch.

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My very first Mosin was a VKT Finn M39 I purchased over 20+ years ago. I had no clue what i had purchased till about 4 years ago. It was in the safe that long.

 

For many years I think I have;

 

3 finnish M39's (SAKO, VKT & B barrel)

5 finnish M91/30's (3 fat stocks/ 2 skinny russian stocks 4 marked [sA] and one marked #41)

1 finnish M91/30 sniper (skinny russian stock)

1 russian M91 hex (orginal condition it looks to be a very good+)

1 russian M91/59 (refurbished)

1 russian M38 (refurbished)

I russian M44(brand new laminated stk, the year on the receiver matches the number on the barrel i bought it about 20+ years ago.)

 

1 russian 91/59 sporter (I purchased it that way its professionally done)

 

I'm not sure I have one safe i just throw them into a black hole and they grow roots.

 

The russian M38's and M59's were rare finds at one time and now they can be had again so if you want one now is the time to get them. I hope to get more too.

 

Get your C&R FFL too go to the ATF site and get the form and for $30 in 30 days you can buy directly off the net and dealers for C&R's thats rifles and handguns were your state laws allows. :smoke::smoke::smoke: Then register with www.samcoglobalarms.com , www.southernohiogun.com , www.aimsurplus.com , ww.centuryarms.com , www.allemsarmory.com , www.empirearms.com Checkout these sights for good buys on mosins/mausers right now.

 

DON'T SIGN YOUR ORGINAL C&R FFL LICENSE you have to wait and make copies to send out to the dealers and you sign those. I mark the copies "COPY" in the center too. I also heard they can be faxed now too.

Guys get your C&R and i'll post were all the hot/best buys are if you want me too?

Edited by Unknown Poster
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aztecguns.com had the best prices when i last bought my m44.

 

i believe it was $49 or $59. all matching numbers in excellent to mint condition, no restamps.

 

and get this. per my request, the guy checked the headspace for me! go and no-go.

 

real nice people over there.

 

i'd recommend doing business with them any time.

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B)-->

QUOTE(G O B @ Dec 19 2005, 08:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My 91/30 shoots 18' high! Love the gun, but it was shooting 18"high and 12" to the right. It seems these were sighted in with the bayonet on, as it was a front line weapon, and they were to leave the bayonet fixed. The front sight was easy enough to drift for center (front sight moves opposite of the direction you want to move the impact). However the vertical adjustment requires a longer front sight pin. Too cold for more rangework, will get back to this in march or april!

 

G O B

 

 

My M44 does the same thing, the whole group shifts as soon as you put the bayonet up or down, if i remember from when i used to hang out on the parrlax bill forum (can't remember the exact name, it was alot of old mil-sup designs ) i was told that it had to do with barrel harmonics...all i know is it kills my flash :cryss: and well that is about half the fun of shooting the M44, watching the people next to me going :eek:

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OK, thats it. Im getting one.

 

I see that Dunham's sporting goods has several versions of this rifle at a great price. The only down side will be stocking up on yet another caliber of ammo. From everything I just read from you guys, this rifle is right up my alley!

 

Thanks for the report, I've often wondered how good the 7.62x54r round was. And for the price, I can't find a comparable rifle. Now, just waiting on my tax returns.

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My M38 is great for making people go :eek: . And since it was never intended for a bayonet, it shoots to point of aim. I love taking it out when it is getting late at the range, the muzzle flash always gets a "WHAT THE F.." ! :killer::smoke:

 

G O B

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OK, thats it. Im getting one.

 

I see that Dunham's sporting goods has several versions of this rifle at a great price. The only down side will be stocking up on yet another caliber of ammo. From everything I just read from you guys, this rifle is right up my alley!

 

Thanks for the report, I've often wondered how good the 7.62x54r round was. And for the price, I can't find a comparable rifle. Now, just waiting on my tax returns.

 

 

stock up on the 7.62x54r now since (at least at the shop where i buy it) its dirt cheap for a high powered round, i have two "spam cans" sitting in the basement, corrosive stuff but you can't beat it for a couple pennies a round that produce fire :devil:

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I've never been affraid of the corrosive ammo. When it comes to bullets, I say, the more the merrier! Especially when its for a $60 rifle. The Mossin variants are pretty simple, easy to clean. Should be no problem to clean her up after each time out at the range. I'll price the corrosive stuff, if its the cheapest, Ill stock up on it.

 

I'm so used to shooting Wolf ammo, that I only clean my Saiga about 3 times a year now. I don't mind cleaning a rifle after every use, I find it theroputic. I love the smell of bore cleaner and Outers oil. I love to feel the steel sliding beneth my oiled cloth. The feeling of scrubbing away all that is bad, as the brush slides up and down the barrel...... :wub:

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Actually water is a good way to clean a bore after shooting corrosive ammo. This old dude at the gun show said back in WW2 when they would shoot a lot of it at the range they would actually stick the rifles muzzle down in a big water barrel afterwards :eek: and then wipe them out and oil them.

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Actually water is a good way to clean a bore after shooting corrosive ammo. This old dude at the gun show said back in WW2 when they would shoot a lot of it at the range they would actually stick the rifles muzzle down in a big water barrel afterwards :eek: and then wipe them out and oil them.

 

Gotcha. The garden hose it is then.

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May want to run that by one of the other guys like GOB just in case. You know how that info obtained at gunshows can be sometimes. This dude deals in antique rifles and is always there. He sounds like he really knows his stuff and I always stop to talk to him. He said the water deactivates the corrosive properties or somethin like that.

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More likely it just flushes it out. Corrosive ammo usually means a mercuric-somethingornother based primer which leaves behind a corosive salt in the barrel after firing. Water is good at absorbing salts and carrying them off.

 

I believe windex also works, but somebody else might want to chime in on this.

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Almost anything with ammonia will work wonders to remove the mercuric salts.

 

The water, and household ammonia based cleaner will truly be the way to go...

 

Just gotta be sure to get it *DRY* afterwards, and lots of oil to prevent the water from surface rusting any parts...

 

 

:smoke:

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Actually water is a good way to clean a bore after shooting corrosive ammo. This old dude at the gun show said back in WW2 when they would shoot a lot of it at the range they would actually stick the rifles muzzle down in a big water barrel afterwards :eek: and then wipe them out and oil them.

 

Gotcha. The garden hose it is then.

 

 

hosing down the old gun out back i see..

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Actually the salts are not "corrosive", they are hydrophillic. They act like dessicant and draw moisture from the atmosphere, wich causes rust. An ammonia solution neutralizes them. I only spray cheap window cleaner and dry the weapon untill I can clean it. If I am going to clean it in a short time , and it is in a dry case I genarally Ignore the ammonia step and just clean normally. Most barrel cleaners have ammonia in them anyway. Also pure ammonia is not good, use cheap window cleaner or one part ammonia to 4 parts water. The mercury in the eastblok ammo is in the primers, the reason is that mercury primers were a proven technoligy, and are shurefire after long storage.

 

 

G O B

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  • 2 months later...

Just aquick Update......

The scope mount from above worked a few times at the range.... and then KABloom! I had to totally revamp my thinking. I added an SKS scope mount, ne turn down bolt, and a muzzle brake. Now I have to get back to the range and see how this all holds up. :wub:

post-411-1142609983.jpg

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Almost anything with ammonia will work wonders to remove the mercuric salts.

 

The water, and household ammonia based cleaner will truly be the way to go...

 

Just gotta be sure to get it *DRY* afterwards, and lots of oil to prevent the water from surface rusting any parts...

 

 

:smoke:

If using water to clean out the coorosive salts, use HOT water, it warms the metal and will thus help whatever water remain evaporate off your gun faster.....

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