scattergun10 125 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I've tried and tried and for the life of me I just cannot get this thing to go in. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, I don't know. I installed the hammer and spring first, then the FCG, and the selector last. I put the selector leg (?) through the right side of the receiver.( I cut a notch in the BHO to make this easier) I get the selector leg through the hole in the retaining plate, but can't get it through the one in the receiver because it sits slightly lower. So I push down on the selector leg as hard as I can while at same time pushing inward on the selector from the opposite side of the receiver, but no luck. Any suggestions ? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theorangeplanet 968 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Has it been modified for the S12, or is it a regular retainer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
netpackrat 566 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I helped my brother convert his S-12 last weekend, and we had the same problem. Turns out the CSS retainer (and I had an extra, so we tried two of them with the same result) hangs down too low on the bottom, and hits the corner of the receiver where it is bent, and won't fully engage the pins. I removed a little bit of metal from the bottom edge of the retaining plate, and it went in fine after that. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
todmich 16 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Just ordered one of these, very good info so I dont go crazy trying to get it in if it dosen't fit right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theorangeplanet 968 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Just ordered one of these, very good info so I dont go crazy trying to get it in if it dosen't fit right. Just be glad you don't have a shepard's crook, like me! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
todmich 16 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Yea I watched the video on it and it seemed like a pain so I decided to take the easier way out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
incognito485 26 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I've also had the same problem in the past with 2 s-12s. Forcing it wont help. I learned that the plate has to fit in just right in both of mine. You may have it too close to the receiver. Try moving it a little to towards the hammer till it wants to go down and forward. Sometimes the coil on the hammer spring can get in the way too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rnemhrd 165 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I helped my brother convert his S-12 last weekend, and we had the same problem. Turns out the CSS retainer (and I had an extra, so we tried two of them with the same result) hangs down too low on the bottom, and hits the corner of the receiver where it is bent, and won't fully engage the pins. I removed a little bit of metal from the bottom edge of the retaining plate, and it went in fine after that. Had the same issue. Once trimmed a bit it works good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scattergun10 125 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 Did some trimming on the retaining plate, and a bit more on the BHO and FINALLY got the bleepity bleep thing to go in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The_Caged_Bird 474 Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 I just re-used the wire that was in the receiver before conversion. IMO, modifying or re-using the existing parts makes for a pretty easily assembled weapon... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oilstain 1 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Toughest part of my conversion as well. Dang plate was supposed to make things easier! Now, I'll know for next time to just look through after seating it, and if it rides to high to just dremmel it down a little. It didn't take much, and now everything snaps together just like the grown-up lego that it is! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ntucker7 2 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Had the same problem with the CSS plate as well. I spent a few hours and coudn't get it right. It was driving me crazy because I had previously used one on an AK conversion and it snapped right in. Finally gave up and installed the Tromix Shepards Crook I got with the FCG. It only took 15 minutes or so to install. It's actually pretty easy when you figure out how to do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
todmich 16 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Recieved my CSS plate yesterday and it worked flawlessly no mod required slid right in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
piwo 3 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Does the CSS plate referenced for the Saiga12 function with all trigger groups? Looking into one of the conversion kits and wondered if it worked with Tromix FCG. The Tromix comes with a shepherds crook, but was curious if the CSS plate worked as well with it. Thanks in advance for your help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TIMTIMTIM 57 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 How old is your s12? Mine is a little older and I could not get it for the life of me. I just reused a shepherds crook. Takes a little practice but its the easiest part for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ultra7350 21 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I'm about ready to order a conversion kit from CSS. Should I also order this plate also for the conversion? Any other recommended parts I should get? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Does the CSS plate referenced for the Saiga12 function with all trigger groups? Looking into one of the conversion kits and wondered if it worked with Tromix FCG. The Tromix comes with a shepherds crook, but was curious if the CSS plate worked as well with it. Thanks in advance for your help! Yes. The plate secures the hammer and trigger pins so as long as your chosen FCG group uses the original pins (they all do, I believe) then you're good to go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
piwo 3 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the info Tim.....Then I'll likely order one: for the price it's not like an extravagance. The paperwork says it was manufactured on 12/18/2011, at Izmash. I've had it 3 days....... Edited May 3, 2012 by piwo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I'm about ready to order a conversion kit from CSS. Should I also order this plate also for the conversion? Any other recommended parts I should get? It's been a while since I ordered parts (before they came in kits) from CSS so I don't know what comes in them. If a sheppards crook or plate isn't included then you will need one or the other. That is, unless you use e-clips (a pain) or just modify the factory spring. I used to use plates but now just modify the factory spring. If your kit has a Tapco G2 FCG then it doesn't come with a disconnector spring. You can use the one out of the factory assembly or just spend a buck on one from CSS. That's easier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ultra7350 21 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 The kit does come with the sheppards crook. I didnt know if I should use the plate instead of the hook. Which one would be better? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 The kit does come with the sheppards crook. I didnt know if I should use the plate instead of the hook. Which one would be better? Neither does a better job, they both work fine. To me at least, it's a matter of ease of assembly vs cost. The plate is the easiest to install but costs the most. The crook is cheapest (unless you really want to mess with e-clips and I don't) but more difficult to get in correctly. Some people end up bending them beyond use. Installation difficulty of a modified factory spring is between the two and it's free. That's why I use it. Purists prefer the crook as that was the original retention method. Others (myself included) prefer the plate as it makes assembly a breeze. Your call. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timy 1,185 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Thanks for the info Tim.....Then I'll likely order one: for the price it's not like an extravagance. The paperwork says it was manufactured on 12/18/2011, at Izmash. I've had it 3 days....... Congrats on your new gun. I think you'll love it. However, I would strongly recommend running it stock for a while before jumping into the conversion. That gives you a baseline of comparison for when you do start to modify it and odds are you may have some issues once it is modified. The most common problem seems to be unreliable cycling of low brass shells after conversion. Anyway, there are countless stickies and threads on the subject here so you've come to the right place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
preparehandbook 326 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I trimmed mine until it almost fit, then accidentally trimmed it too much. I'm back to a shepards crook. I may try individual clips next. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mitch535 29 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I reused my shepards crook. I even discovered a way to install it easily. I just don't know how to explain it in text, or else I'd enlighten everyone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
piwo 3 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the info Tim.....Then I'll likely order one: for the price it's not like an extravagance. The paperwork says it was manufactured on 12/18/2011, at Izhmash. I've had it 3 days....... Congrats on your new gun. I think you'll love it. However, I would strongly recommend running it stock for a while before jumping into the conversion. That gives you a baseline of comparison for when you do start to modify it and odds are you may have some issues once it is modified. The most common problem seems to be unreliable cycling of low brass shells after conversion. Anyway, there are countless stickies and threads on the subject here so you've come to the right place. Good point. I've been lurking and reading and I guess I should do that very thing. Honestly the only time I envision using any "low brass" or less than full loads in this is to break it in. I'll be using this for a "home defense" and coyote shotgun when hunting on some Public lands here with "shotgun only" restrictions. Well, not until I find a gunsmith to build me a threaded barrel extension as I doubt the short barrel will be practice for the later use. All in all it's a nice tool that I have very specific goals in mind. I don't shoot shotguns and magnum loaded rifles for recreation anymore, only for purpose (hunting, defense). 6 shoulder operations have taken the fun out of shooting large bore rifle and shotgun loads for fun. I'm new here but not to the shooting sports and all the "proper hold" techniques in the world are moot when your joints are shot and have been oft cut on! Thanks for the good info and tips. I've no "low brass" kit so probably get some 3 inch shells and go punish myself as a benchmark this weekend! Hmm... I wonder what my eldest's fiancé is doing Saturday Apologies if this has been a bit of a hijack. The plate is going to be something I get, when I get to installing it I'll post a report. Since this is a fairly recent production weapon (less than 6 months from the line) it might be a good litmus test. Edited May 3, 2012 by piwo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 The Chinese L wire is the easiest retainer IMHO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeerSlayer7600 20 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) I used the crook on mine. Took a little fidgeting with a couple punches and a pair of needle nose pliers to get it in correctly, but it works. Edited May 3, 2012 by DeerSlayer7600 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
randyf 35 Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I'm a shepard by trade so it was a no brainer for me. I used a fucking retaining plate and had no problem getting it in. But then again I'm also old and could probably row a boat with a rope so go figure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mjrose 0 Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I just finished my conversion for the first time. I am still waiting for a retaining plate, but got impatient so I put in the Shepherds crook. I figured out an easy way to install it. I will try to explain it the best I can... -After putting in the trigger, and bho, I put in the shepherds crook and lock it into place on the rear axis pin (used a punch to push it all the way in) -then I put in the front axis pin through the hole just barely and let it rest on top of the shepherds crook. Then I put in the hammer and push the axis pin all the way through (it will almost go all the way). Next I took the punch and pushed down on the shepherds crook while pushing on the axis pin, that will lock it into place. Hope this helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DLT 1,646 Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I had the same exact f-ing problem with my first conversion. I ended up drilling the damn plate to line up the holes correctly. Then later, when the shotgun wouldn't cycle, I discovered the top part of the plate was rubbing the bottom of the bolt carrier enough to cause cycling issues. So I ground that son of a batch down and bingo, I suddenly had the S12 from Hell! Has functioned 100% since then with all ammo, even the crappy Wallyworld Universal Win. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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