AtlantaAK 0 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Hope all is well, I am almost done with my first conversion and is now stuck on the trigger guard. It is a very tight fit and I can only get the screw to go through for the rear hole. The hole near the magazine catch needs to move up just a tiny bit, but I'm not sure how to go about doing it. I don't want to mess up the magazine catch. Any input or feedback would be great appreciated. Thanks I ordered the bolt on rounded from CSS http://store.carolin...uard-DIY/Detail Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agent Lemon 157 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Try grinding the front hole until you can put the screw through it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesavery22 54 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Bend the trigger guard. Don't file or "grind" the hole. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 You dont need to put the front screw in. Just put a hole plug in it and slide the end of the trigger gaurd under the magazine latch. it will secure it just fine. Then you will have to bend/force the trigger gaurd to align with the back whole. It should fit pretty tight. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mogunner 240 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 On the conversion kit I just did, the guard didn't slide under the mag catch. The hole was "slightly" off, I just ran a drill bit through it to wallow it out the little bit it needed to let the screw go through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtlantaAK 0 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Thanks very much...but like mogunner, my guide does not slide under the match catch either. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chevyman097 2,579 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 oh...wow. Never seen one that looks like that. Are those coming like that on the saiga sporters now? or is that after market? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjj342 632 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Hope all is well, I am almost done with my first conversion and is now stuck on the trigger guard. It is a very tight fit and I can only get the screw to go through for the rear hole. The hole near the magazine catch needs to move up just a tiny bit, but I'm not sure how to go about doing it. I don't want to mess up the magazine catch. Any input or feedback would be great appreciated. Thanks I ordered the bolt on rounded from CSS http://store.carolin...uard-DIY/Detail Everything on this rifle, is just common sense. With something like the trigger guard, bend it to fit, you wont break it. I got the same one and it was a bitch to get on the first time, with the tiny nut and bolt. If you need to drill or file it because it absolutely wont go in , then do it. And this goes for a few other parts on this gun. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Bigger hammer. Better fit! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cpltk2 6 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Bend it till it fits. Just use a bigger hammer (preferrably brass/nylon or rubber mallet) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
adjc 171 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Thanks very much...but like mogunner, my guide does not slide under the match catch either. put your front bolt and nut on first (behind mag catch), you may have to move it around some to get it to drop in....but it will go. put the rear bolt and nut in, may have to bend the guard a little to get it to line up. had to do this on my 5.45, no drilling was required. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 They do flex.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mogunner 240 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 The problem on mine was that the front of it was smack up against the rear of the mag latch assembly, it absolutely could NOT move forward any further, and the hole was just a tiny bit off. I just ran a drill bit through it that was like one size larger, no problem. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) I noticed you hid the nuts inside the receiver. I tried that, but the front one would not allow the hammer to drop back far enough to engage the trigger reset, which also means I could not get the hammer to drop far enough to put the bolt carrier back in. I put the nuts on the outside toward the trigger guard, and it works perfect. If I want to hide the nuts inside the receiver, do I just need to grind it down a bit until the hammer has enough clearance to put the bolt back on and engage the trigger reset? Thanks! Edited March 27, 2012 by Semper299 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agent Lemon 157 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 I noticed you hid the nuts inside the receiver. I tried that, but the front one would not allow the hammer to drop back far enough to engage the trigger reset, which also means I could not get the hammer to drop far enough to put the bolt carrier back in. I put the nuts on the outside toward the trigger guard, and it works perfect. If I want to hide the nuts inside the receiver, do I just need to grind it down a bit until the hammer has enough clearance to put the bolt back on and engage the trigger reset? Thanks! What FCG are you using? The only time that a nut was messing with anything here was with the Arsenal FCG, when the nut was slightly too large to go between the triggers legs, not letting the trigger reset. This was solved by filing down the nut just a cunt hair, and then timing it in such a way that it wont touch the trigger. Never had a problem with a nut and a hammer though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mogunner 240 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 No problems in the function check, I guess I'll have to wait and see if any problems present themselves when firing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 I noticed you hid the nuts inside the receiver. I tried that, but the front one would not allow the hammer to drop back far enough to engage the trigger reset, which also means I could not get the hammer to drop far enough to put the bolt carrier back in. I put the nuts on the outside toward the trigger guard, and it works perfect. If I want to hide the nuts inside the receiver, do I just need to grind it down a bit until the hammer has enough clearance to put the bolt back on and engage the trigger reset? Thanks! What FCG are you using? The only time that a nut was messing with anything here was with the Arsenal FCG, when the nut was slightly too large to go between the triggers legs, not letting the trigger reset. This was solved by filing down the nut just a cunt hair, and then timing it in such a way that it wont touch the trigger. Never had a problem with a nut and a hammer though. Tapco FCG and trigger guard from CSS. Yeah, this is the first time I have had this problem as well, but also the first time I have used the CSS trigger guard. The end of the screw sticks out maybe 1/8th of an inch, so I will probably just grind that off and see if that gives the hammer enough clearance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jon P. 1 Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 I noticed you hid the nuts inside the receiver. I tried that, but the front one would not allow the hammer to drop back far enough to engage the trigger reset, which also means I could not get the hammer to drop far enough to put the bolt carrier back in. I put the nuts on the outside toward the trigger guard, and it works perfect. If I want to hide the nuts inside the receiver, do I just need to grind it down a bit until the hammer has enough clearance to put the bolt back on and engage the trigger reset? Thanks! What FCG are you using? The only time that a nut was messing with anything here was with the Arsenal FCG, when the nut was slightly too large to go between the triggers legs, not letting the trigger reset. This was solved by filing down the nut just a cunt hair, and then timing it in such a way that it wont touch the trigger. Never had a problem with a nut and a hammer though. Tapco FCG and trigger guard from CSS. Yeah, this is the first time I have had this problem as well, but also the first time I have used the CSS trigger guard. The end of the screw sticks out maybe 1/8th of an inch, so I will probably just grind that off and see if that gives the hammer enough clearance. I used the tapco FCG from CSS too except saved money on the guard and just cut the stock one and took a torch to it, bent it til it fit with tension and just the rear nut. Kept me away from the front nut problem u have. but sounds like a file should fix it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gpqueen 545 Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 The easiest way is to slightly elongated the rivet hole if it is out of spec until the screw slides through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AtlantaAK 0 Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I got it to fit from following you guys advice....i did some slight bending and screwed on the front bolt first (behind the mag catch)....I did not get a problem with the nut interfering with the hammer though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Slopes 2 Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I experienced the exact same problem this weekend. What I did was to elongate the holes in the trigger guard itself with a dremel. I would grind a bit, then check, rinse, repeat. The trigger guard is very steady even after doing the elongating, and does not move at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Just wanted to update, in case anyone else runs into this problem. On the CSS trigger guard, I was having trouble with the front screw/nut preventing the hammer from going back far enough to engage the trigger reset, therefore preventing me from putting the bolt back in. I gound off the excess screw that protruded through the nut, and that was the problem. Works like a champ now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Boba Debt 350 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Why do people buy Trigger Guards? It is very easy to remove the factory guard from the plate and use it instead. All you have to do is stick the front tab under the mag catch and bolt or rivet the back tab. Very simple and it's free 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
semper299 284 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Why do people buy Trigger Guards? It is very easy to remove the factory guard from the plate and use it instead. All you have to do is stick the front tab under the mag catch and bolt or rivet the back tab. Very simple and it's free Yeah, I was kinda thinking that same thing as I was casting aside a perfectly good and reusable trigger guard during the conversion. Oh well, live and learn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mogunner 240 Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 It came in the kit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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