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Saigatech or Tromix DIY guard


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I have never seen the saigatech does anyone have photos. Where can I find there site

Just Google Saigatech and it will be your first listing! :google:

 

This thread will be your second! :lolol:

Edited by Azrial
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Tony was pretty pissed about this when I told him. He says that you have never called him or emailed him about it, since he has never denied a warranty request on any Tromix product in the last 10 ye

I went with the Tromix DIY for one reason.   Tromix is a business member of this site.   I am sure the Saigatech part is good but I don't see them supporting this site and contributing informatio

Go with the Tromix. Easy to install and looks great.

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If I want to use the Ergo classic AK grip, does the saigatech AK style guard make the most sense? I'm told that the Tromix only fits properly with the SAW grip.

 

The Aluminum Saigatech only works with the Tapco SAW grip, and the Steel Saigatech comes in 2 flavors. Tapco SAW or Standard Tapco AK grip.

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I got the Tromix one. I'd consider it not fitting for anything but the SAW grip. It's too far from the trigger guard, so the trigger is a reach, and the BHO is in the way. Get the Saigatech.

 

Huh? :unsure:

 

What? :cryss:

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OK. Here's what I plan on doing. If I am on the wrong path, please tell me so.

I do not care for the angular looks of either Saigatech or Tromix guards. I am going to use a Bulgarian stock trigger guard and selector stop because aesthetically, I like the looks of the big square guard.

 

I am going to trim down the mag release housing by about half the height, and curve it back slightly. That way, it will still be there, but won't necessarily get in the way of the factory mag release, which I am in no way modifying.

I am going to rivet the back strap behind the trigger, and the rearward two holes immediately in front of the trigger. Those 3 rivets are all accessible for riveting in the receiver without removing the trunion. Now here's where it gets interesting.... I plan on cutting off about half of the shanks for the front two rivets and silver soldering them in so they will sit flush. They will not be structurally holding anything, but be there for show. The alternative would be to use a shoe anvil to hit the exposed shanks of the rivets in the space under the trunion.

Any downsides to the soldering idea?

I know some people have talked about just cutting off the front two holes completely on the guard and selector stop, but I would like to keep them.

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I think I'll pick up a Tromix. I'm kind of on the fence as it is about converting mine anyway... the Tromix is cheaper and looks easier to install. Plus NC gets a little nippy during the winter and I want to have the ability to wear gloves comfortably. Thats one thing thats kind of pissing me off about my 556 right now... :/

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, as of an hour ago, I'm in the market for one of these DIY trigger guards. My TG on my "Obama Special" from CGW broke near the rear weld of the TG for the second time. What's weird is it broke shooting Federal bulk ammo from Wally World, not 3" magnums or something. It broke at this same spot back in January after I first got it. Dinzag (who's local to me) welded it up pretty soundly. The weld seems good, but the TG itself broke through. :(

 

brokenweld.jpg

 

Sorry for the blurry pics.

 

 

So now I figured I should just spend the extra money and get a DIY trigger guard so I won't have to worry about the original breaking for a third time. Hell, I might get the steel Saigatech model and weld that in place through the PG nut hole CGW made for the original conversion. Overkill, yeah.......but it shouldn't come off again. I hope.

 

 

Here's a question for you guys that have a Saigatech model.... Does both the SAW grip model and the AK grip model have the plate cover the entire bottom of the receiver? I mean, does it come all the way to the back of the receiver? I believe the AK model does, but I couldn't tell on the SAW grip model.

 

Also, I see that the new AK styled TG model allows use of the BHO. Does that mean the other models cover the slot up?

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Corbin

Edited by Corbin
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I wouldn't call that breaking on the weld. looks to me like there is a fault in the base metal. something like that should have been caught by QC, but then so should the vodka specials.

 

your on the right path to fixing it, if your not happy with any of those answers, i'll send you my old TG from my conversion for the price of shipping. Your call.

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Well, as of an hour ago, I'm in the market for one of these DIY trigger guards. My TG on my "Obama Special" from CGW broke near the rear weld of the TG for the second time. What's weird is it broke shooting Federal bulk ammo from Wally World, not 3" magnums or something. It broke at this same spot back in January after I first got it. Dinzag (who's local to me) welded it up pretty soundly. The weld seems good, but the TG itself broke through. :(

 

brokenweld.jpg

 

Sorry for the blurry pics.

 

 

So now I figured I should just spend the extra money and get a DIY trigger guard so I won't have to worry about the original breaking for a third time. Hell, I might get the steel Saigatech model and weld that in place through the PG nut hole CGW made for the original conversion. Overkill, yeah.......but it shouldn't come off again. I hope.

 

 

Here's a question for you guys that have a Saigatech model.... Does both the SAW grip model and the AK grip model have the plate cover the entire bottom of the receiver? I mean, does it come all the way to the back of the receiver? I believe the AK model does, but I couldn't tell on the SAW grip model.

 

Also, I see that the new AK styled TG model allows use of the BHO. Does that mean the other models cover the slot up?

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Corbin

 

Maybe the metal in the TG was weakened from being welded there and getting hot. This is one reason I prefer a trigger guard be riveted in place like the original design.

There is a lot of force put right there where the PG tightens up against the back of the TG. If the hole cut for the PG nut was oversized, and allowed for any movement in there, I could see how it might want to slide forward too much into the TG and apply enough force to break like that.

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Here's a question for you guys that have a Saigatech model.... Does both the SAW grip model and the AK grip model have the plate cover the entire bottom of the receiver? I mean, does it come all the way to the back of the receiver? I believe the AK model does, but I couldn't tell on the SAW grip model.

 

I used the saigatech for the saw grip and it didn't fit flush with the back of the receiver. I had about an 1/8th of an inch space between the end of the plate and the back of the receiver.

 

Matt

 

post-16230-1239549224_thumb.jpg

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After watching Corbins videos, I'am not surprised it broke. That man is going to need a peice of rebar bent for a trigger guard and weld in place. :D

Saiga Tech Saw

post-15343-1239552571_thumb.jpg

post-15343-1239552628_thumb.jpg

Edited by havok
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I know I sometimes tend to shoot fast. :rolleyes: These are AKs though. If shooting them fast would cause an issue, you'd think the full auto S12s would have experienced this before. Especially the shorty ones that use heavier loads. When it broke (this time), I was practicing inserting a loaded mag on a closed bolt, firing a round, then unloading and doing it again. No rapid fire.

 

I hadn't thought of the PG nut hole being too large. Good thought Cobra. I don't think it is, but I can look. It's how it came from CGW when I got the thing. It's one of the "Obama Specials". If that's the case, I'd probably want to get something with the PG nut built right onto the TG, like the Tromix, Saigatech or the second AK-builder. Either than or weld the PG nut in place.

 

As for using rebar......well, I suppose the strongest setup I could do would be to get a steel DIY setup from one of these guys, with a built in PG nut, install it, then use the large square hole in the receiver for the original PG nut to weld it in place from the inside of the receiver. Might be overkill, but after having my TG break twice, I want it SOLID. Perhaps my grip put rotational torque on the back of the TG and stressed it that way. I'm wondering if those that have the wider SAW grip nut (like the Saiga Tech) would prevent this more.

 

Now to decide.... I like the extra plate of the Saiga Tech, and the long SAW nut looks secure. I wish they had a little more room for your finger (top to bottom) though. I live in MI and if I want to shoot in the snow, wearing gloves is a plus. They DO make an AK styled TG now though:

 

Img_0531.jpg

 

I don't know much about the AK-Builder setup. It looks nice, but I'm wanting to use a SAW grip. I can't tell if it would work with the first model (with the plate). It probably would with the second, but again, I'd be without the reinforcing plate. Here's a pic Kbailey3 posted of an early AK-Builder TG, which looks to have a lot of room for gloved fingers. I think he said that he used a Romanian parts set for the PG plate:

 

img7938.jpg

 

The Tromix appears to have a bit more finger room than the Saiga Tech, but it lacks the reinforcement plate. I'm not sure how much difference that makes as far as strength goes. I suppose it might help keep the grip from flexing, which might have been my problem if the PG nut hole was made too large. I like my Tromix stock and would like to support a forum business member. I also want the strongest setup I can get.

 

TromixTG.jpg

 

The other thing I'm looking at that probably wouldn't be an issue for most folks is how smooth the bottom of the receiver is in front of the trigger. Since I sometimes like to use my non-shooting hand's index finger to do the

, having a protrusion there (like the Tromix does) might chew up my finger. I suppose I could put a cap head screw in from the bottom and use a nut on the inside of the receiver, if there's room.

 

 

 

 

Corbin

 

 

*Edited for spelling*

Edited by Corbin
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Yeah, I looked at those. I like the styling, but the screws on the Saiga Tech ones only go into a 3/32" plate and aluminum can't be welded to the receiver if I need extra strength. Plus, aluminum would be easier to strip the threads on than steel would be.

A steel Saiga Tech would probably be OK though, especially if I use a cap screw coming in from the bottom and a nut inside the receiver. Granted, I could only do that on the front screw, I think. I CAN weld the steel plate to the receiver if need be however.

 

 

Corbin

 

 

Corbin, did you look at the Saigatech aluminum ones? They have pretty much a full plate and are made for the SAW. They are also smooth inside. They aren't real roomy, but they look pretty high quality.
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