Gunfixr gas plug warning

[StarPD 6]

I recently took my S-12 out to zero the new Burris Fastfire dot sight. I had coated the threads on the Gunfixr plug with anti-seize so it wouldn't get sticky. But after firing around 30 or 40 rounds of Federal slugs, I went to adjust the plug, and it was too stiff to turn by hand. I had to use a leatherman tool case edge to turn it.

 

Be careful to have your Gunfixr gas plug clean and treated with anti-seize or whatever you find won't gum up when shooting and adjusted to the correct setting for the ammo you plan to use so you don't have to turn it after it has become too tight to turn by hand. Of course, after your shooting session, be sure to clean the entire gas system, including especially the threads in the gas block and gas plug. If you plan to use different loads and may have to adjust the gas plug, be sure to have a tool with you to use in the slots on the plug to turn it with.

 

BTW, I plan on leaving the Gunfixr plug set on #2 for #1 Buck and slugs. Will this beat up the trunnion, or is it safe to use that setting for these 2 loads?

I don't use 3" shells at all, only 2-3/4", and mostly Federal, as I trust it more than others. Your thoughts please?

 

Thanks.

[Moe Zambeak 53]

I keep White Lithium grease on my threads to keep them from seizing.

 

I would recommend using what ever the lowest reliable gas setting is for any specific load. It usually only takes a shot or two to see how far the shells are being ejected to determine this.

 

I'd like to hear other, more experienced members opinions on this as well.

[hobbyshooter 59]

I always bring a tool for the gas cam. If nothing else, just so I don't remove the prints from my fingers when it's been heated up.

 

I don't use antiseize. I just brush the threads clean with rem oil then reassemble. This hasn't been an issue for me. I typically run through 100-150 rounds in a session. Sometimes I'll let the gun sit for a week without cleaning if I know I'll be shooting it again soon.

 

As for what setting to use:

Always start off trying to find what setting is undergassed, then work up to what setting cycles.

 

In my 4 hole gun (overgassed, but has an increased power 1911 recoil spring front of the dust guard and a Dr. Shoals recoil pad) Nobel sport 2-3/4" 4 buck cycles on setting -1. S&B 00buck cycles on setting +1.

[billyjoebob 10]

I always use Mobil 1 on the GunFixr threads. I figure it will work well for whatever heat it's exposed to, and helps for a quick clean up.

[G O B 3,516]

I like anti-seeze, as oil will 'creep' into areas where you may not want it (between piston and cylinder). Plus anti-seeze is good to many times the temperature of any oil.

[Gibbles 23]

I use that copper anti seize that glock puts on their pistols new...

 

works great.

 

This is the stuff I have

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20900/Product/C5_A_ANTI_SEIZE_LUBRICANT

[Tsm002 5]

I just use clp on mine. Sorta like everything else I have. A quick spray down and work on it with a toothbrush, then spray it again, wipe off excess, back in action. Pretty much the same manual of arms I have for most of my firearms with slight variations on the type of brush and where the brush goes.

 

I have not yet encountered any of the issues described by others here. Will give the copper anti-sieze a run, though just to see if it's worth transitioning to.

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

I use Break-Free CLP, (apparently now owned by Winchester), on mine as well, with no issues. Recently, I've been using the OEM gas plug instead, and with the custom work done to it by Lone Star Arms, I have no practical reason to go back to the Gunfixr gas plug.

 

Without said custom work done, I recommend the Gunfixr part.

 

Ymmv.

[scattergunner 12]

a quarter works pretty good for freeing up a stuck plug.....and they are pretty easy to come by

[Gibbles 23]

I'm running the russian puck still, and I have been able to go past 1k with out any cleaning, the puck did not move freely and to move it I needed to pound on it, but the gun still worked fine like that.

 

I had lots of problems with the gas adjuster getting stuck, I tried clp, Mobil 1 and they worked for a while...

Ever sense I switched to the copper I have had 0 issues with it getting stuck, but just make sure you coat everything that goes into the gas block, not just the threads (don't worry about the flat end just the sides).

 

ETA: 98% of that was walmart fed bulk 7 1/2 shot.

Edited February 2, 2010 by Gibbles

[jack mace 18]

+1 ON KEEPING THE PLUG CLEAN, I USE GUN OIL FOR THE THREADS (1 DROP THEN SPIN). DO NOT FIRE SLUGS OR BUCK ON SETTING 2 EVEN 2 3/4.

[boatbod 2]

+1 ON KEEPING THE PLUG CLEAN, I USE GUN OIL FOR THE THREADS (1 DROP THEN SPIN). DO NOT FIRE SLUGS OR BUCK ON SETTING 2 EVEN 2 3/4.

 

Easy to say, but it really depends on the gun and its gas ports. You have to see what's going on before making any hard rules applicable to your own hardware.

 

Having opened my 19" bbl's 3 gas ports up to .093 and sorted out the hammer profile, I can run any light load on setting #3 and any buck/slug load on #2, but it steadfastly refuses to cycle anything reliably on #1+ or #1-.

 

Magnums fired on #2 are ejecting about 5-6' so I don't think I'm beating anything up. New loads are tested first on the lowest setting just in case something changes.

[jack mace 18]

hey boatbod where in his post does it say he got out a fuckin mic and a dremel and drilled his ports?

[sapper1371usmc 107]

hey boatbod where in his post does it say he got out a fuckin mic and a dremel and drilled his ports?

 

First, whats with the smartass remark. You should really try to handle things civilly and tone down your posts.

 

Second, what Boatbod is implying is that no two guns are the same from the factory. I have two S12's that each have 3 gas ports. One will eat Federal LE slugs on setting +1 whereas the other will not. Different tolerances require me to run that particular gun with that particular ammo on gas setting two. So before you begin giving advice, maybe you should spend more time learning the platform.

[Etek 32]

The Navy and Coast Guard are getting away from Zinc based anti-sieze compounds for good reasons. I'll NEVER use it on anything ever again after seeing it fail miserably on 76mm AAA cannons and HF gear.

The Copper based stuff (Koprcoat etc) works well on everything even if you immerse it in salt water.

The Zinc based stuff has a petroleum agent making it unsuitable for firearm gas systems.

 

Me? I use a Mil-Spec CLP on everything only because the Copper based stuff is impossible to get out of clothing.

[StarPD 6]

The anti-seize I used was silver in color, not sure what it is based on.

I think I'll try to get some copper based anti-seize and see if it works better.

 

Thanks for the tips, guys.

[skiboatsp 111]

The anti-seize I used was silver in color, not sure what it is based on.

I think I'll try to get some copper based anti-seize and see if it works better.

 

Thanks for the tips, guys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hey starPD

 

The copper is for high temps, it works great

Edited February 4, 2010 by saigatechusa

[StarPD 6]

I think the gas plug on an S-12 sees some pretty high temps. Maybe not red hot, but enough to burn hands if touched after a long string of shots.

I think I will try the copper anti-seize anyway.

I doubt it will hurt anything, and I'd like to be able to adjust my Gunfixr gas plug when I'm out shooting.

Now I recall seeing my smith using the copper anti-seize, and he was Gunsmith of the Year in 2007, so it can't be too bad

[jack mace 18]

hey boatbod where in his post does it say he got out a fuckin mic and a dremel and drilled his ports?

 

First, whats with the smartass remark. You should really try to handle things civilly and tone down your posts.

 

Second, what Boatbod is implying is that no two guns are the same from the factory. I have two S12's that each have 3 gas ports. One will eat Federal LE slugs on setting +1 whereas the other will not. Different tolerances require me to run that particular gun with that particular ammo on gas setting two. So before you begin giving advice, maybe you should spend more time learning the platform.

hey little girl i dont care how many s12s u got, starpd is talking about a factory gun not the one boatbod has where he opened his ports to 0.93" why dont u go put your gun fixer plug on 3 and fire some slugs out of it big mouth.

[sapper1371usmc 107]

Pariah,

 

Your obviously missing the point here. And in no way am I suggesting that a user keep his gun on a setting that would be overgassed causing damage to the rear trunion. What I would suggest to anyone is to shoot his/her gun on the lowest setting possible with the type of ammo they plan to run and work their way up from there until they reach a reliable setting, and if that happens to be setting 2 with slugs, than so be it. Your blanket statement of "DO NOT FIRE SLUGS OR BUCK ON SETTING 2 EVEN 2 3/4", isnt the end all, be all, and while it may apply to some, it most definetly does not apply to all.

[Gothmog 24]

Well his screen name is Pariah, He is just living up to the name he has chosen for himself..................social outcast.

 

So don't to hard on the feller, bless his heart.

 

 

 

HUZZAH!!

[Mullet Man 2,114]

Sidenote, I just got a GFGP in, are the gas slots suppose to be out of alignment from the numbering on the face? I've never seen one in person before.

[gpqueen 545]

Sidenote, I just got a GFGP in, are the gas slots suppose to be out of alignment from the numbering on the face? I've never seen one in person before.

The numbers are off a little. The correct number should be down where it locks in place with the pin.

[Mullet Man 2,114]

10-4, thanks Greg.

[boatbod 2]

Pariah, did you forget to take your meds or something?

 

My original response was simply to suggest that since no two factory guns behave quite the same, each has to be tested and evaluated on its own merits. No mics or calipers required.

[Raoul_Duke 113]

no two factory guns are guaranteed to behave quite the same, each has to be tested and evaluated on its own merits. No mics or calipers required.

 

Correct.

 

ETA: Not that I'm "the authority" on Saiga's . . . But you are correct.

Edited February 5, 2010 by Raoul_Duke

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

hey boatbod where in his post does it say he got out a fuckin mic and a dremel and drilled his ports?

 

First, whats with the smartass remark. You should really try to handle things civilly and tone down your posts.

 

Second, what Boatbod is implying is that no two guns are the same from the factory. I have two S12's that each have 3 gas ports. One will eat Federal LE slugs on setting +1 whereas the other will not. Different tolerances require me to run that particular gun with that particular ammo on gas setting two. So before you begin giving advice, maybe you should spend more time learning the platform.

hey little girl i dont care how many s12s u got, starpd is talking about a factory gun not the one boatbod has where he opened his ports to 0.93" why dont u go put your gun fixer plug on 3 and fire some slugs out of it big mouth.

 

^ lol

 

pariah, you really should check out the "Fight Club" section of the board.. I think you'd feel right at home there.

[StarPD 6]

For the record, and not that it makes much difference, my S-12 is not a factory gun. It has been converted by Arizona Response Systems, and has a PG, Ace folding buttstock, FCG, 18-3/8" barrel, H&K sights, a KA gas puck and Gunfixr adjustable gas plug. I put a vented factory forend with a short rail section on the bottom that I bought from Cobra, and a gas tube shroud I bought from him too. I also have a combo tac light/laser I bought from CSS, an accessory offset rail mount for the light and a rail mount sling swivel. The tac light/laser is a replacement CSS was kind enough to replace the earlier one on which the battery door hinge failed. BTW, thanks to Greg Queen at CSS for replacing the light beyond their replacement policy. I appreciate the great service. I haven't mounted it and tried it out, but it looks considerably more substantial than the first one I got from them, which was obviously a first gen version. I love the light and laser, and except for the failed battery door hinge on the first one I got, I find it perfect for HD use. I think now it will do the trick for me for HD. I also have an alternate plain dust cover to use with the K-VAR side mount for the Burris FastFireII I got for it from CSS. That's about the extent of what has been done to it, and I find no other accessories that I want for it. Hopefully, the copper-based anti-seize will cure the binding Gunfixr gas plug that I experienced when zeroing the Burris FastFire II dot sight.

 

I hope this clears up any misconceptions anyone may have had about the gun itself, and what has been done to it.

[mastercrasher 0]

I just installed the tac-47 and hope it works like the videos I've seen on u-tube. The main reason is a mix of ammo. I'm not your typical shotgunner. I use everything from cheap stuff to expensive Centurion and PDX1 and all between.