jonblack 9 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Hey guys. Has anyone cut the stock down using a miter saw? I'm thinking this is how I will do mine...when I get one. jonblack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnboatcat 24 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Yes. See my instructions on page one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Hey guys. Has anyone cut the stock down using a miter saw? I'm thinking this is how I will do mine...when I get one. jonblack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnboatcat 24 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Looks great and thanks for the good photos! Interesting to see that the aggressive teeth on the saw did not chew the plastic up very much. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Looks great Shannon. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonblack 9 Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks for posting the pictures Cobra. When I get one I am going to put it on the miter saw with the complete upper on it and butt the picatinny rail up to the miter fence to keep things square. Of course, it would be a dry run to see how things looked and felt before I made the plunge cut. jonblack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Then, with a new fine carbide saw blade, I did very short stroke cutting to be sure I stayed right on the line of the tape: Thats a Epic use of hacksaw. I feel Inspired. Cobra: Chaos rail on a Akdal? is that solid mounted? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks guys. With a blade like that you can actually cut through solid aluminum.... plastic is no problem. NB the Chaos rail is still being fit to the Akdal. I need to fab up the retainers. It fits good though (turned around backwards) and the rail height can be matched perfectly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Very cool, looking forward to updates. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pikapp168 17 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 Why isn't this a sticky? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 Thanks for posting the pictures Cobra. When I get one I am going to put it on the miter saw with the complete upper on it and butt the picatinny rail up to the miter fence to keep things square. Of course, it would be a dry run to see how things looked and felt before I made the plunge cut. jonblack Can't really do that or you will start cutting into the PG before the blade gets through the stock....hence the wood blocks to space it out far enough to just clear. Next time I'm going to use the table saw instead, with a jig to hold the receiver / stock level and square to the miter gauge. With a 10" carbide tipped blade cranked all the way up, it will be easier to cut the stock off without risking cutting into the PG. Of course, now that Tromix has the new AR PG adapters for sale, that doesn't matter as much... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonblack 9 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 Thanks for posting the pictures Cobra. When I get one I am going to put it on the miter saw with the complete upper on it and butt the picatinny rail up to the miter fence to keep things square. Of course, it would be a dry run to see how things looked and felt before I made the plunge cut. jonblack Can't really do that or you will start cutting into the PG before the blade gets through the stock....hence the wood blocks to space it out far enough to just clear. Cobra, thanks for the update. That makes a lot of sense. jonblack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonblack 9 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 (edited) So at this point I am much more comfortable with doing the real cut. A couple of things I should mention before anyone goes out and does what I did: First - I don't have any and don't know if this 90degree assumption I made is correct. Can someone give an update if 90° is the correct cut angle? Also, Cobra, can you explain this picture a little more and explain the difference between the line drawn on the stock and the line on the protractor? Is that just the angular difference in the picatinny rail and the stock? http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=62026 Thank you jonblack Edited March 19, 2012 by jonblack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 So at this point I am much more comfortable with doing the real cut. A couple of things I should mention before anyone goes out and does what I did: First - I don't have any and don't know if this 90degree assumption I made is correct. Can someone give an update if 90° is the correct cut angle? Also, Cobra, can you explain this picture a little more and explain the difference between the line drawn on the stock and the line on the protractor? Is that just the angular difference in the picatinny rail and the stock? http://forum.saiga-1...attach_id=62026 Thank you jonblack When you are prepping the rear of a receiver to accept a stock, the angle you cut depends on the stock adapter you are using, what kind of stock you use, and the angle you want it to sit at. Some people have different preferences. Some want a stock that's straight in line with the bore. Some prefer it to have a slightly downward angle to help counter recoil. Some will even intentionally mount it at a slightly upward angle if it's a folder, so when it folds the butt end sits lower than the charging handle where it can be folded to the same side and not interfere. This isn't really a concern with the Akdal, but more with an AK or S-12, on which the charging handle sits just high enough to make it possible. To mount a skeleton folder on the Akdal, you have to set it up folding to the opposite side of the charging handle. On the Saiga, the rear of the receiver needs to be trimmed at a slightly downward angle if you want to mount a stock flush to the back of it, and have it end up being straight. The newer internal receiver block adapters are made with a corrected angle to account for this, so they can be attached to an unmodified receiver, and the stock will sit down more in line with the bore. If you look back at old pics of Saigas with stock adapters and Ace (or other folding or collapsing) stocks attached to them, most of them look funny with an upward angle to them and not straight with the bore, unless the receivers were trimmed. To be able to properly manage recoil, and keep the gun on target, the stock needs to be straight or at a slightly downward angle. All that said... the mark I made first on the one in the pics, was at 90 degrees to the top rail, because the Tromix adapter is square, and the top rail is in line with the bore. This will put the top of a skeleton stock, or the collapsing tube of an AR stock, straight in line with the bore. I then drew a second line at a 1 degree angle toward the front at the bottom, thinking about setting it up with a downward angle. Then after test fitting I changed my mind and adjusted it to being more square. Should have clarified that. I'll most likely cut all of them square in the future. (90 degrees) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonblack 9 Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Thank you for your reply Cobra. I appreciate your taking the time to give us info. I always thought the angle was to allow the shooter to get a proper check weld to be about to see through the sights. My wife's Kel Tec Sub 2000 has a straight stock and the check weld you get does not give a good sight picture. I do like the way straight stocks look, though. It appears more "correct" even though I know there are other factors. Thanks again jonblack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1200hd_cj 3 Posted May 11, 2012 Report Share Posted May 11, 2012 Do these accept the mil-spec or commercial tubes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonblack 9 Posted May 16, 2012 Report Share Posted May 16, 2012 Do these accept the mil-spec or commercial tubes? The Tromix adapters do not accept buffer tubes. There is a mounting location so that you can mount a Tromix (or similar) fixed stock or an ACE "pig nose" buffer tube adapter. Futher, mil spec or commercial buffer AR-15 buffer tubes have the same size threads, just different diameters where the adjustable stock slides on. So, the answer is: If you use an ACE buffer tube adapter you can use either a mil-spec or commercial buffer tube. jonblack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FoxHound 3 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 (edited) Wow, so I'm much more confident about doing this myself this weekend My buddy has a table saw like Cobra 76 two Hopefully it turns out alright. I'd hate to have to wait MONTHS for a replacement lower Edit: Yeah screw the table saw, it was a lot easier to use a hacksaw and then just grind the cut into desired form Edited September 9, 2012 by FoxHound Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FoxHound 3 Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 My stock conversion is done. It was a simple PROCESS, but sanding and filing out the tiny details was a nightmare to say the least oh hi there air-compressor tools. Nice to meet you. Thanks for lending a hand After properly measuring and marking the cutting points with tape, I used a hacksaw to cut off majority of the stock, then I removed the factory screw that held the upper and lower together. After separating the lower, I used this sanding disc on an aircompressor thingamajig (I went to my Boeing friend's house to borrow it. Made life so much easier though I have no idea what theyre actually called haha) to fit the adapter as best as I could. Then I used this metal dremel grinder thingamajig to grind away at the adapter itself to make the tromix screw angle appropriately in order to place the adapter into the cut portion of the receiver. It's not perfect, but it works and I like it a helluva lot more than the factory plastic buttstock. Voila Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aerosigns 4 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 As Jerry Miculek says " there are a thousand passes up to just right, but there is just one pass past too far" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cletusthepipeman 1 Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Tony, I just lopped off my stock with no trouble but..... I am having trouble lining up the adapter hole to the upeer reciever. I have a Tromix part. Any thoughts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timmmyy 9 Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 looks nice , great job . T&N has a good video on cutting the stock off Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toothandnail 275 Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Tony, I just lopped off my stock with no trouble but..... I am having trouble lining up the adapter hole to the upeer reciever. I have a Tromix part. Any thoughts? Double check the length, if your much over the .6 , that changes the angle of the bolt in relation to the reciever. We've had one where the recess's that the two bosses fit into was off , quite a bit wider on one side than the other. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cletusthepipeman 1 Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 Tony, I just lopped off my stock with no trouble but..... I am having trouble lining up the adapter hole to the upeer reciever. I have a Tromix part. Any thoughts? Double check the length, if your much over the .6 , that changes the angle of the bolt in relation to the reciever. We've had one where the recess's that the two bosses fit into was off , quite a bit wider on one side than the other. Thanks. I had to lower the adapter a touch. I'm right at .604-.605 on the stock. I do have a 1-2 degree cut on the stock from the top down. Wondering if the XN version is different. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sphy1005 0 Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 I must've been lucky. I made 3 cuts total with a miter saw and did not have to sand or file anything. TandN adapter. It came with a new bolt too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JP12480 1 Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 Foxhound, is that stock aluminum or polymer? Looking for it but all th aluminum ones are sold out..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JP12480 1 Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Has anyone tried using a fine tooth bandsaw? I have a miter saw but I am weary of using it for this....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ignition 9 Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 (edited) I used a skill saw at .800 and then just filed it down to .602 (the bolt and the upper have a hard time aligning though it works, not sure if i can fix it much, now that im down to .6) also echoing the point to use blue painters tape to easily identify the NO CUT ZONE Edited April 8, 2013 by Ignition Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Haycock 9 Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Has anyone tried using a fine tooth bandsaw? I have a miter saw but I am weary of using it for this....... I used a horizontal band saw with a fine tooth blade on it. it cut it nice. i then used and belt sander and a file to finish it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aerosigns 4 Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Here is a thought. Maybe someone can see a flaw in the plan. I have a sled I made for my table saw. It is straight and true on all angles. It has two tracks on the bottom to run in the miter slots. The blade passes up through the sled so that you can cut parts that don't fit well on a standard miter. I am thinking of placing the gun upside down on it's rail. Then clamp it front to back, and top to bottom, using shims to assure a 90 degree cut front to back. Then raise the blade to the proper height, easily clearing the PG. Slide the sled through and start sanding and filing. Does anyone see an issue with this plan? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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