Gun smiths near me will not work on AK's
I found that out early in my gun loving life too.
Read up near my pic there where it says "You CAN do it yourself" because you actually can.
Bare in mind, you have people in Pakistan building half way decent AKs with hand tools. You have a leg up on them, you have access to quality parts.
A lot of these guys around here can help you convert it yourself and pretty easily too, take advantage of the opportunity, a lot of them have gone through many trials and errors ahead of you and that makes your conversion easier. Being unsure and asking a question to play it safe before you do something is a lot smarter than you may think you might look. A stupid question can be answered, but stupid mistakes are sometimes harder to fix if not impossible, feel very free to ask a question.
There is one rule I like to give to new guys when working on a conversion. That is this. You can take the material off easy, but you may not be able to put it back on. Better to be slow as Christmas and take it easy than to screw up a whole workpiece and be up a creek without a paddle. But do not let it scare you. This is certainly not rocket science. You can do this.
I don't have a S308. I have a VEPR .308 and I converted a S12 (so I still know a little bit about what you're in for.) However to some degree it's the same thing, an AK variant chambered for the same round (VEPR .308). If you have a 1:12 twist rate (Chances are you do.) you will find anything below 168 grain to a certain degree will likely be more to your liking at the ranges talked about by other members already. You get into stuff above that, you could use a 1:10 twist rate. Also understand that it is not a thick profiled barrel and you have more moving parts, so your accuracy will suffer the farther out you go. This is why breech block, lever actions, pump action rifles and bolt actions will be more accurate, because fewer parts move due to the need to manually cycle the action. However for my application, I hunt with my VEPR .308 because it fits the ranges I have to work with.
If you're going to do it, I recommend a double hook trigger and to polish your contact points on the trigger, this will smooth out the pull but give you a better feel for the trigger. Also if you can find one (or make one) that is also an adjustable trigger, it will help eliminate trigger creep forward and back giving you a better pull.
I use a basic single hook, but I'm actually used to the trigger, just depends on what you are comfortable with. Because in the end if you can put the round on the game in the right spot, that's about all you can ask for.