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What would you .223 guys buy?


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Well this is really for shits and giggles, but also to see what works for you and why. I've heard many things about the Bennie Cooley comp and Noveske's pig nose and have yet to use them, i've used just about all the others worth trying. I know first hand the PWS combo works really really well. But i wonder if the Bennie Cooley comp's claim to fame is true. Let me know or just post up a pic of porn or gun porn or some sorta combo if you don't give a shit :devil:

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I like the Tromix Shark 223. Barrel needs to be threaded for it. I have some in stock for sale and will let you know next week how it does.

Greg

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I would foremost vote for leaving it be with just the bare crown, if I had to pick one I would probably go with an AR15 style A2 flash hider.

Ditto! I've currently got a DPMS AR brake mounted, for the following reasons:

1) Because it's essentially an A2 suppressor with a few little round holes on top (instead of A2 slots), it sends most of the muzzle blast & noise down range (away from me, and anyone next to me);

2) It protects the muzzle threads; and

3) It was inexpensive (thanks MidwayUSA).

As mentioned above, I would suggest leaving the muzzle alone, unless you had a specific, rational reason for choosing otherwise.

 

FWIW, I started out with a US-made copy of an AK-74 brake on my Saiga (I already had it in my parts box, which is why I threaded the muzzle in the first place) - the muzzle blast was God-awful (literally deafening), and IMHO most semi-auto 5.56s don't need a brake anyway. As I said, FWIW...

Edited by Bad Bob
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I tried firing with and without the M16A1 I put on my Saiga. No noticeable difference in noise or blast either way. It would be interesting to shoot it in low light and see the difference. From my personal experience in the Army and later in the AF reserve, I know the birdcage works well on the M16 in low light. That couple with being cheap (I had an almost new one in my parts box) and easy to mount (see thread posted last month) swung it for me.

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I'm actually looking at some of the brakes from King Armory. They look like they'd do a better job at recoil compensation than an AK-74 style brake. I primarily want a brake to improve accuracy by reducing bowing, though. The stock I put on my converted Saiga .223 has a built-in spring plate for reducing recoil, so I no longer feel a sharp recoil like I did with the original factory stock.

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Being in Connecticut, we're not allowed to have flash hiders or barrel threading under the assault weapons ban. I ordered a tapco AK74 style muzzle brake and will be modifying it for a press fit and pins to secure it.

But we can do silencers! Guess whut I done voted fors?!

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I shot my friends 16in AR today with an AK74 muzzle brake, I gave that up after about 10 rounds, it's so freaking loud it will hurt your sinuses. He fired it next to me when I had my ear plugs out and my ear is still buzzing from it. My AK with no brake was significantly quieter than his rifle (both 16in barrels, same ammo). Also my AR15 is quieter than both of these due to the 20in barrel and A2 flash hider. BTW I had a heck of a hard time clocking my A2 flash hider without going over on the recommended torque, what I finally ended up doing was heating the crush washer up till it was glowing and crushed it hot then let it cool, it may be better to just go with the A1 style hider since they don't need clocked.

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Being in Connecticut, we're not allowed to have flash hiders or barrel threading under the assault weapons ban. I ordered a tapco AK74 style muzzle brake and will be modifying it for a press fit and pins to secure it.

But we can do silencers! Guess whut I done voted fors?!

 

I still have to wait a year for that (20yr old) :rolleyes:

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I tried firing with and without the M16A1 I put on my Saiga. No noticeable difference in noise or blast either way. It would be interesting to shoot it in low light and see the difference. From my personal experience in the Army and later in the AF reserve, I know the birdcage works well on the M16 in low light. That couple with being cheap (I had an almost new one in my parts box) and easy to mount (see thread posted last month) swung it for me.

I agree. One other factor - the ammo you're using. I've seen some tests online, where they compared muzzle flash with different types of ammo (using an AR, IIRC). Some put out gigantic fire balls, others next to nothing. I didn't bookmark the site (call me stupid, it won't be the first time) - maybe you can find it with a search...

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I shot my friends 16in AR today with an AK74 muzzle brake, I gave that up after about 10 rounds, it's so freaking loud it will hurt your sinuses. He fired it next to me when I had my ear plugs out and my ear is still buzzing from it. My AK with no brake was significantly quieter than his rifle (both 16in barrels, same ammo). Also my AR15 is quieter than both of these due to the 20in barrel and A2 flash hider. BTW I had a heck of a hard time clocking my A2 flash hider without going over on the recommended torque, what I finally ended up doing was heating the crush washer up till it was glowing and crushed it hot then let it cool, it may be better to just go with the A1 style hider since they don't need clocked.

 

My experience across the board. The AK-74 muzzle devices will make you stone-deaf. I had one on my Saiga when I first converted it, and liked it, until I removed my hearing protection for a dose of reality (I figured I would not have my hearing protection on, if I grabbed the Saiga at 2:00 AM for home defense, and decided to fire it at the range without muffs, just for training purposes). Wow. Wanna do the Helen Keller thing? Just fire a .223 Saiga with an AK-74-type muzzle device, and without hearing protection, and you'll be halfway there. No idea how the Soviet/Russian troops handle[d] the muzzle blast - I was literally deaf for hours. Bottom line - the AK-74 brake was designed for full-auto rifles, to prevent muzzle rise when firing full-auto: if you don't have an automatic weapon, you probably don't need an AK-74-type brake.

 

As for clocking an A2 flash hider, I bought several crush washers & a few split-ring lock washers from MidwayUSA, and tried each washer on multiple rifles (liked the crush washers a lot better than the lock washers). They vary in thickness (manufacturing variations?). I managed to get a good fit that way, on my Saiga (and also on a .30-06 Savage bolt gun, that used to have a JP Enterprises 'Recoil Eliminator' on it, until I got f@cking sick of muzzle brakes making me & my shooting buddies deaf). If you don't want to heat a crush washer "up till it was glowing" for a good fit, you might also try a file or emery cloth to reduce the thickness...

 

FWIW (my advice is, send the muzzle blast 'down range,' not back at the shooter, or side ways at other gun owners). Just my 2 cents...

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  • 3 weeks later...
I shot my friends 16in AR today with an AK74 muzzle brake, I gave that up after about 10 rounds, it's so freaking loud it will hurt your sinuses. He fired it next to me when I had my ear plugs out and my ear is still buzzing from it. My AK with no brake was significantly quieter than his rifle (both 16in barrels, same ammo). Also my AR15 is quieter than both of these due to the 20in barrel and A2 flash hider. BTW I had a heck of a hard time clocking my A2 flash hider without going over on the recommended torque, what I finally ended up doing was heating the crush washer up till it was glowing and crushed it hot then let it cool, it may be better to just go with the A1 style hider since they don't need clocked.

 

My experience across the board. The AK-74 muzzle devices will make you stone-deaf. I had one on my Saiga when I first converted it, and liked it, until I removed my hearing protection for a dose of reality (I figured I would not have my hearing protection on, if I grabbed the Saiga at 2:00 AM for home defense, and decided to fire it at the range without muffs, just for training purposes). Wow. Wanna do the Helen Keller thing? Just fire a .223 Saiga with an AK-74-type muzzle device, and without hearing protection, and you'll be halfway there. No idea how the Soviet/Russian troops handle[d] the muzzle blast - I was literally deaf for hours. Bottom line - the AK-74 brake was designed for full-auto rifles, to prevent muzzle rise when firing full-auto: if you don't have an automatic weapon, you probably don't need an AK-74-type brake.

 

As for clocking an A2 flash hider, I bought several crush washers & a few split-ring lock washers from MidwayUSA, and tried each washer on multiple rifles (liked the crush washers a lot better than the lock washers). They vary in thickness (manufacturing variations?). I managed to get a good fit that way, on my Saiga (and also on a .30-06 Savage bolt gun, that used to have a JP Enterprises 'Recoil Eliminator' on it, until I got f@cking sick of muzzle brakes making me & my shooting buddies deaf). If you don't want to heat a crush washer "up till it was glowing" for a good fit, you might also try a file or emery cloth to reduce the thickness...

 

FWIW (my advice is, send the muzzle blast 'down range,' not back at the shooter, or side ways at other gun owners). Just my 2 cents...

 

 

 

Agreed! I have installed a DPH flash hider. It seems to work great. Installs in about 30 seconds. no threading or pinning required, just snap the threads on and screw on the hider.

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I prefer flash hiders over brakes. Probably left over bitterness from the Clinton AWB.

 

I really like the Tabuk from NDS. post-12530-1236752608.jpg

I bought 5 and I sent them out to be parked.

 

 

They are threaded 14x1 left hand but I think the Saiga 223 barrel can be threaded for that. :unsure:

 

I also like the standard bird cage M16 flash hider.

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I really like the Tabuk from NDS.

I bought 5 and I sent them out to be parked.

Looks a lot like an L1A1 flash suppressor!

 

 

They are threaded 14x1 left hand but I think the Saiga 223 barrel can be threaded for that. :unsure:

Yes indeed...

 

;>)

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  • 6 months later...

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