mrmallek

happy belated Birthday, Will

Thanks everyone for the advice.

just a heads up guys, I have decent anti malware, spyware, virus protection but got infected today. I haven't been to their website for a while but was looking up the operating system of the Desert Eagle (don't like shooting them but wanted to learn more about the gas system). I am still wiping shit from that computer.

Not til ya said it - but hell yeah brother - right on!!

PM me with details. I have a standard tromix stock if interested in trade. Thanks for looking

35 years on this planet - seems twice as long between the ears.

My experience with the polychoke has not been the best. No offense to everyone who enjoys their polychokes just not my choice. I have a Cobra's Custom winchoke adapter and like it a lot. I use Briley Browning chokes (std invector) and couldn't be happier. They switch out easily when needed but the modified seems to hold the tightest overall pattern for me. Also - you may want to hold out for Tom Cole from CGW to get his muzzle break - I think he calls it the Mitigator - it has the tacticool spikey end and actually brakes the gas to reduce perceived recoil and is threaded for Rem-c

Please let a more experienced tinkerer chime in but I don't think it's a big deal at all. Does a Pistol Grip nut fir in the square? The hole (the literal Mickey Mouse) at the rear of the receiver is cosmetic at this point - have it tig'd and ground before refinish if you want. The elongated hole in front of the trigger would hold your Trigger Guard and also the safety stop. Depending on the style of Trigger Guard you use - may or may not be that easy but absolutely do-able. This is an AK platform weapon - don't mess the Fire Control Group holes as they should be hardened but don't worry

If you do mess it up - all is not lost. There are very qualified forum business members who can repair it for you. The cost will most likely be subjective to the amount of work required to repair. I believe Pauly, Cobra, Mike (Waffensmied), Tony (Tromix), CGW, and I'm sure others can do this.

have you been drinking I have Oh, yeah Go BULLS!!!!!

Man, you talk the talk - I say You seem to know what you want and have the skills to accomplish it. people want to tell you what they would worry about, worries never built a god damned thing. Research the datums, blueprint your plan and run it. Please please document your build here, while I am on Snipershide, I don't check in much since birdshot is so cheap and I got kids, time to live vicarious through folks like you. Great idea, great post Keep us in the loop

What he said - if you experience any feeding or extraction issues afterward, check your ports and / or think about profiling - read through the thread, tho. If its a newer gun - will most likely cycle pigsnot if loaded. You did an excellent job polishing - kudos.

Started life as a MAA converted vodka special. A little TLC (GB - enlarged / ports - opened and added) and she began to win me over. Pauly's Ice-Racked Glass Bolt with rearswept dog leg Tromix vertical CH - lightened by Pauly. Cut down SGM forend. Custom gas plug - original modded by me for a third setting. Tromix stock with original ACE folder - added a set screw to tighten it in the open position. CSS Cheek pad for Tromix stock - would love an original Tromix with Cheek riser if anyone's got one lying around - pm me. Cobra's Custom Winchoke adapter with Briley's Brownin

descriptions to follow in edit format if I can get the pic's to finally load... Cool huh?

Check out the "how do I polish the bolt" section - post #90 Jack Travers goes into it a bit - some good info. Don't know how to link to a single post so I copied and will paste his words below: Just a word of caution. I enjoy reading all the post about polishing the bolt, carrier, hammer, etc. It is fun to do and it gives a feeling of accomplishment. But here is the problem which hasn't been addressed, mainly because very few people really know how to build/tune one of these actions properly or understand the relationship/interface of the parts during the cycling of the weapon sy

Pauly terrible photo but check his page the tromix bolt on is simply awesome for the dollar - be sure to install properly, see related posts (sorry, no time to search out and link - I'm tired) but the vertical CH is the way to go. originally Galil style but adapted - i think a VCH is more natural than a LH CH but that's just me. see what you like best. good luck with your build, mark

My apologies for my bad attempt at sarcasm - never did I mean to imply that Tromix would ever do that to their customers and when referring to cloning your 'shopmates' I was talking about Tony. Wow - could you imagine two sources of talent like that in one shop?

It sure as hell is NOT to be expected on a premium build. He did say it looks good and is an E-tac build - nothing premium about that - well, except maybe the price tag. Bob - If y'all would just start cloning your shopmates, this crap wouldn't happen - and I wouldn't have bought a converted S12 from someone else only to have to tear it up and make 'er run. Seriously - there are other good vendors around here if Tromix list is full and you can't wait - just check em out. Dude who sent his gun and over a $$GG$$ to E-tac back in '08, probably could have waited to get on

To go shooting - you can always swap in some e-clips or external retaining rings if you have the correct snap ring pliers. i don't suggest this for repeated use but for a day of recreational play - it'll work

one suggestion that won't mar the visible finish is to run a tap thru the threads. If the screw threads don't protrude past flush when tight, but lock up the mechanism, my best guess is too tight of a thread engagement. remember to use lubricant on your tap and loctite on your final mounting screws - check your fit thoroughly before loctite-ing Enjoy the project - Sweet sense of accomplishment in a bruised shoulder. mark PS your other issue is difficult to understand without a pic of the setup

I agree with the use of anti seize - I just apply and wipe it into the threads and off - anti seize compound actually bonds with the metal so very little is needed to achieve the desired effect. However - heat dispersion must be considered in the situation you've described. The gas block and tube are thin and cool off faster than the plug. I believe the formula is 0.001" expansion per inch diameter at approx 275 degrees F. I may be off a bit (please correct me if you know better) but that is close. with that in mind - your plug (male) will expand a bit and not contract as quickly as t

Congrats, Man Brains and Beauty - you must be as happy as me- mine's not president of anything, tho - so I guess ya got me...

Great idea - I value members opinions more than a bunch of mall ninjas playing dress up on some boards

not sure what your ultimate goal is but I'd like to suggest checking out Solarforce products (on Ebay - or at Lighthound) - they're a Chinese company - sorry for that, but they make great lights that are compatible with Surefire products. You can buy complete torches or just a host and use another bulb and driver, what I like is they have a battery tube (extension) link with a QD rail mount built in and what appear to be quality pressure switches link. for about a hundred bucks you can put together a tough light that mounts to your rail direct without a clamp and has a sweet remote