Best rifle lubricant?

[Jpanzer 1,265]

Curious as to what you folks prefer to use to lubricate your rifle or shotty. Been using Remington Gun Oil, but also have a can of Liquid Wrench Dry Lube I've used on other stuff and that seemed to work well. Anyone use dry lube on their firearms?

 

What works best for you?

[patriot 7,197]

Ballistol. Good enough for Seals

 

 

info@ballistol.com

[waltham_41 52]

Curious as to what you folks prefer to use to lubricate your rifle or shotty. Been using Remington Gun Oil, but also have a can of Liquid Wrench Dry Lube I've used on other stuff and that seemed to work well. Anyone use dry lube on their firearms?

 

What works best for you?

 

 

I use either Ballistol or Break Free CLP

[Elkhound 91]

I don't know why, but I find this topic to be one of the most interesting non-Saiga specific topics we have. I have three or four different lubes and three or four different cleaners on my work bench, but for the life of me, I can't really tell much difference between them. Now, I don't shoot much and I keep my guns really clean, so maybe it does not matter. Maybe it matters if you expose the weapon to really harsh environments, or clean it once a year????

 

So, given my inability to differentiate between the brands I have, I enjoy reading about what brands you guys and gals prefer. So far, I have tried Blue Wonder Disotec XFR; Otis 085 Ultra Bore lubricant/cleaner; Ballistol multi purpose and Lucas gun oil. The only difference my unskilled mind can discern is that I like the Ballistol aerosol (easy to use) and I like the Lucas shade of red (how is that for a scientific basis).

 

But seriously, I wonder how much difference any of these brands makes for a casual shooter like me. Also, I have not tried a graphite or "dry" spray lubricant and I wonder if they offer any significant advantage other then their ability to avoid collecting dust, dirt and grime?

 

 

(rambling post by WJ - made without any alcohol, just invigorated by large quantities of Pepsi!)

[kresk 10,063]

This thread is a close duplicate to another recently posted one here: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=49445&pid=460856&st=0entry460856

[crackback 135]

SmoothKote and Tuf Cloths. Its a dry Moly based lube and works great. http://www.sentrysolutions.com/

[janusthephoenix 24]

I use Hoppe's with my boresnake, and for general lubrication I use RemOil CLP. I don't have a preference, that's just what the store had at the time.

[Lone Star Arms 2,047]

Curious as to what you folks prefer to use to lubricate your rifle or shotty. Been using Remington Gun Oil, but also have a can of Liquid Wrench Dry Lube I've used on other stuff and that seemed to work well. Anyone use dry lube on their firearms?

 

What works best for you?

 

KY.

 

WS

[Paulyski 2,227]

I found this article & comprehensive, controlled test (with pics) helpful when wondering the same question.

This is a Brownelle's article that I found helpful when looking for rust inhibitors;

 

Gun Cleaning Clinic: Knowing the Limits of Rust Preventatives

 

 

By: Steve Schmidt

 

 

What's Best?

Quite often, I'm asked to recommend the best rust preventive for firearms applications. I know this sounds like a fundamental request, but providing a good, comprehensive answer is not as simple as it seems. More often than not, my initial response ends up being a lot of additional questions like:

How long will the gun be in storage?

What type of environmental exposure will it encounter?

How frequently will it be handled with bare hands? And…well, so on and so forth.

 

Modern rust preventives are similar to today's hi-tech, chemical gun solvents - no single product is perfect (or best) for all conditions, all the time. If you do a lot of shooting and cleaning, I'm sure you'll agree not all solvents are created equal. Some stomp out powder and carbon fouling with more authority than others, a few work particularly well on lead and copper – still others perform almost magically when it comes time to strip out stubborn wad fouling from a smoothbore.

 

Likewise, rust preventives are tailored to meet or exceed specific criteria established by the individual manufacturer. A good majority of them are multi-purpose formulas designed to lubricate and/or clean and condition in addition to fighting rust. Products with large percentages of lubricating and cleaning additives may or may not perform to your required level of corrosion protection.

 

On the other hand, products providing maximum corrosion-resistance may be too messy or difficult to remove for daily use. Understanding these properties is a must in order to select products that meet or exceed your particular application.

 

To help put things into perspective, let's compare two, very real scenarios. Nowadays, it's not uncommon for large stores, such Scheels and Cabela's, to practice a "help yourself" or "browse at will" policy that permits customers to "pick-up and fondle", leaving behind the remnants of sweaty, acidic fingerprints on every gun they touch. I'd like to believe most shops wipe down their inventory on occasion, but to assume this happens on a daily basis teeters on absurd. Obviously, this situation requires at least a medium-duty, rust preventive that guards against rust caused by daily handling for a full workweek or so. On the contrary, an antique arms collector, who keeps his priceless heirlooms in a humidity-controlled gun safe, and handles them only once or twice a year, can probably get by with something less protective, less messy, maybe even less expensive.

 

Developing A Test

Brainstorming for this months' Cleaning Clinic generated some interesting thoughts, opinions and speculation from some of our techs and other crew here at Brownells. Summed up, there appears to be an enigma surrounding the performance of different types of rust preventives. What works well for some shooters, could very well fall short for others. So, I felt the best way to assist you with product selection was to try and show the limitations of some of the more common products by subjecting them to a simple 72-hour, environmental test. Since I probably have more in common with Dr. Frankenstein than an Ivy League science graduate, I knew the toughest job would be keeping the test realistic, achieving some identifiable results, and not going too overboard with it. This is what I came up with.

 

I began by selecting ten products commonly used to protect firearms from rust and corrosion. These were: Birchwood Casey Sheath, Boeshield T-9, Break-Free LP, Break-Free Weapon Wipes, Brownells Cosmoline, Brownells Rust Preventive No. 2, Hoppe's Lubricating Oil, Rig Universal Grease, and Tetra Gun Lubricant. To curb my own curiosity, I also threw in a couple extra lubricants – Valvoline 5W-30 motor oil and the universally recognized WD-40.

 

The test-bed would consist of 1/8" thick, raw, flat steel plate cut into individual pieces measuring about 5" to 6" long x 1¾" wide. In order to achieve accurate results, each test-bed would need to be as consistent as possible, so I bead blasted the plates to a uniform surface texture. This process removed any pre-existing corrosion and exposed a fresh, unadulterated test surface so every sample would start on the same playing field. Bead blasting also produced millions of microscopic pockets in the metal that would help capture moisture and accelerate rust formation on what would otherwise be a smooth, polished finish.

 

Starting with the letter "A," I then hand stamped each plate with an identification letter to prevent mix-up during the three day testing process. Plate "A" would be the designated CONTROL plate, left untreated to weather the storm without the protection of any rust preventive whatsoever.

 

Applying The Test Samples

After designing and printing-out a datasheet, it was time to get down to business and kick-off the study. I wrote "CONTROL" next to the letter "A" on the datasheet and moved the plate stamped "A" temporarily off to the side; then, proceeded to record the name of each product next to one of the remaining letters ("B" through "L") on the datasheet. I made sure to check the datasheet twice just to be sure everything was correct.

 

Since it's not unusual to use rust preventives on a daily basis, especially if you shoot a lot or carry a concealed weapon, I do consider ease of application and odor to be important factors in the selection process. Therefore, I established a crude, four-level scale for rating sample thickness (or weight). These were: ultra-thin, thin, thick and heavy. Odor would be rated on a numerical scale of 1 to 5, one being no detectable odor and five being knock-your-socks-off, wife-kicks-you-out-of-the-house stinky!

 

To avoid contamination factors, each test plate was thoroughly degreased with its own, clean rag saturated with Brownells TCE Cleaner Degreaser, then allowed to dry completely prior to applying the rust preventives.

 

Each sample, with the exception of Break-Free Weapon Wipes, was applied to its respective test plate with a fresh, cotton bore patch to prevent cross-contamination. Weapon Wipes are pre-saturated cloths ready for use, so transferring the product to a patch was not necessary. Since the fluid consistency of the samples varied, I applied them with the mindset that I was protecting a firearm for six months of indoor storage, be it a cabinet or humidity-controlled gun safe. This meant one, even, easy to apply layer on the front face and edges of the plate – no puddling or extra thick coverage was allowed.

 

Let The Testing Begin

All test plates were positioned flat, sample side up and spaced approximately 2" apart on an unprotected picnic table in my backyard for three days. If you're at all familiar with weather in the Midwest, you know it's not uncommon to experience two or three seasons of weather in a single weekend -– this particular 72-hour period was no exception. We had high humidity, scorching heat, followed by some horrific thunderstorms that produced pounding rains and cool evening temperatures – perfect conditions to grow some serious rust and corrosion on raw steel!

 

The test plates were inspected at around 24 hours into the study with negligible results, but by day three, things had shaped up nicely.

 

The Results

After 72 hours of exposure, all test plates were brought indoors for evaluation and photographing. You will notice there are two photographs per plate. The first photograph shows the plate immediately after testing. The second depicts the same plate after degreasing with TCE to remove all loose corrosion. It provides the more accurate representation of overall protection. Note that raw steel is especially susceptible to corrosion and is not a true indication of how blued, parkerized, plated or painted gunmetal will react to different environmental conditions.

Plate A - CONTROL

 

 

The control plate was degreased and left unprotected for the duration of testing. As a result, it exhibits the heaviest amount of rust and pitting, covering nearly 100% of the surface area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate B - BIRCHWOOD CASEY SHEATH

Brownells P/N: #167-016-400 (4.5 oz. can)

Thickness: Ultra-thin liquid

Odor Rating: 4 (moderate to strong)

 

 

Sheath Rust Preventive is a unique, oil-based formula featuring a special FPR (finger print remover) agent. Its ultra-thin consistency applies easily with a soft cloth and creeps into hidden crevices for thorough coverage. Excellent choice for general wipe down and long term, indoor storage of firearms. Suitable for daily protection in the field, especially in humid and salt-air climates. Factory recommended as a bore cleaner as well. Available in 4.5 oz. and 1 gal. containers, 2 oz. and 6 oz. spray aerosol cans.

 

Test plate examination shows the water displacing properties of Sheath. Mild pitting and staining is evident; overall metal condition remains good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate C - BOESHIELD T-9

Brownells P/N: #686-900-004 (12 oz. aerosol)

Thickness: Ultra-thin liquid

Odor Rating: 3 (moderate)

 

 

Boeshield T-9 is a heavy-duty, rust and corrosion preventive developed by The Boeing Company for lubrication and protection of aircraft components. Specially formulated combination of solvents, waxes and lubricants coats and protects smooth and porous metals from rust and corrosion. Displaces moisture and lubricates at the same time. Dries to a thin, waxy film that will not harm paints, plastics and vinyls. Not easily removed once dried; requires mineral spirits or degreaser. For firearms applications requiring better than average protection against moisture indoors and outdoors. Good choice for long-term exposure to salt-air environments, areas with high humidity or extreme wetness. Available in 4 oz. and 1 gal. containers, 4 oz. and 12 oz. spray aerosol cans.

 

Test plates reveal minimal moisture penetration and negligible rust formation. Collection of some dust/debris on surface is present. Minor blemishes present after degreasing. Overall metal condition is excellent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate D - BREAK-FREE LP

Brownells P/N: #102-000-001

Thickness: Thick liquid

Odor Rating: 2 (minimal)

 

 

Contains polymerized, synthetic oils for excellent lubrication at high temperatures and pressures, plus built-in preservatives to help guard against rust and corrosion. Reduces wear and resists thermal breakdown. Good, dual purpose, lubricant/preservative for the internal workings of semi-auto weapons that receive routine cleaning and maintenance.

 

Test plate shows moderate rust formation and shallow pitting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate E - BREAK-FREE WEAPON WIPES

Brownells P/N: #102-000-006

Thickness: Ultra-thin liquid

Odor Rating: 4 (moderate to strong)

 

 

Weapon Wipes are soft, non-woven cloths pre-saturated with Break-Free CLP, a Mil-Spec oil with cleaning, lubricating and protecting properties. Convenient to use; offers good indoor and outdoor protection against rust when used regularly. Easy to apply and remove.

 

Test plate shows moderate rust formation, less pitting than Break-Free LP.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate F - BROWNELLS COSMOLINE

Brownells P/N: #083-033-016 (1 lb.)

Thickness: Heavy grease

Odor Rating: 2 (minimal)

 

 

Heavy weight grease specifically designed for maximum protection against rust and corrosion on all types of metal. Rated to protect polished steel panels from rust for one year in Open Shed Storage and 30 days, minimum, in a humidity cabinet. Thick grease consistency requires more effort to apply and remove. Apply with brush or rag at room temperature or melt in a double boiler for use as a dip treatment. Excellent choice for long-term storage in all environments, especially during shipping. Remove with chlorinated solvents like TCE. Available in 1 and 4 lb. containers.

 

First test plate shows collection of dust/debris on treated surface but no moisture penetration or rust formation. Slight darkening of the steel was apparent after degreasing. Overall metal condition is excellent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate G - BROWNELLS RP2

Brownells P/N: #083-019-016 (1 pint)

Thickness: Ultra-thin liquid

Odor Rating: 4 (moderate to strong)

 

 

Special blend of petroleum distillates neutralizes fingerprints, displaces moisture and helps protect against rust and corrosion. Ultra thin consistency creeps into hard-to-reach areas for complete coverage. Suitable for all day field protection and long-term, indoor storage of firearms. Excellent choice for general wipe-down of all metals. Will not harm stock finishes. Available in 1 pt., 1 qt. and 1 gal. containers.

 

Test plates show the water displacing properties of RP2. Minimal rust formation and pitting is evident.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate H - HOPPE'S LUBRICATING OIL

Brownells P/N: #699-100-003

Thickness: Thin liquid

Odor Rating: 1 (odorless)

 

 

Lightweight, high viscosity, general purpose oil safe for all metals and woodwork. Lubricates moving parts while protecting them from rust and corrosion. Specially formulated to resist gumming and hardening; will not become rancid. Highly purified and odorless, so it's a pleasure to work with and safe for stock finishes. Applies and removes easily. Excellent, wipe-down and bore protecting oil for firearms stored indoors. Provides good protection in the field if re-applied daily.

 

Test plate shows significant rust formation and disruption of the bead-blast finish over the majority of the surface area. Obvious discoloration and mild pitting is present after degreasing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate I - RIG UNIVERSAL GREASE

Brownells P/N: #756-010-001 (1 oz. jar)

Thickness: Heavy grease

Odor Rating: 1 (odorless)

 

 

Clean, viscous grease designed specifically for heavy-duty rust prevention. Applies with a clean shop cloth or cotton swap. Wipe off all excess to leave a thin, protective film that fights rust indoors and out. Leave the application thicker for excellent protection in salt-air or extremely wet or humid conditions. Not easily removed, use degreaser. Available in 1 oz., 3.75 oz. and 15 oz containers.

 

Test plate on left shows the typical collection of dust/debris common with grease-based rust preventives. No evidence of rust formation or discoloration. The degreased plate shows the metal is unmarked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate J - TETRA GUN LUBRICANT

Brownells P/N: #316-006-001 (1 oz. bottle)

Thickness: Thick liquid

Odor Rating: 3 (moderate)

 

 

Fluoropolymer penetrating lubricant and conditioner designed to reduce friction/wear and fight corrosion. Thick, tacky consistency adheres well to all metal surfaces. Wipe off excess for a good, protective coating indoors and while in the field. Displaces water well. May discolor painted surfaces. Available in 1 oz., 4 oz. and 8 oz. squeeze bottles.

 

Test plates show uniform water displacement and generally good protection overall. Mild pitting is present.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate K - VALVOLINE 5W-30 MOTOR OIL

Brownells P/N: N/A

Thickness: Thick Liquid

Odor Rating: 2 (minimal)

 

 

#1 choice of top mechanics, but not recommended for firearms applications. In a pinch, new motor oil of any type/brand will offer decent protection against rust until the firearm can be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated. In emergency situations, I've used both motor oil and kerosene as rust preventives on exterior gunmetal without incident. However, avoid contact with stock finishes and optics.

 

Test plates show some water displacement value in motor oil. Pitting is present, but the metal is in better condition than CONTROL Plate A.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plate L - WD-40

Brownells P/N: N/A

Thickness: Ultra-thin liquid

Odor Rating: 4 (moderate to strong)

 

 

WD-40 lubricates, cleans and displaces moisture to prevent rust. Manufacturer recommended for firearms and other sporting equipment. Easy to apply formula contains petroleum distillates that could affect certain stock finishes. May cause gumming on internal components and inside receivers. Long-term use on gunmetals has been thought to limit the effectiveness of certain bluing solutions. WD-40 has been around a long time and earned the reputation as an excellent rust preventive for exterior surfaces of firearms. A favorite among old timers.

 

Test plates show excellent moisture displacement. Minimal rust formation is present; almost no pitting is visible after degreasing.

 

 

 

 

 

Pick What's Right For Your Needs

As shown, the properties and limitations of different rust preventives vary dramatically. This allows gun owners to select products that best fit their maintenance style and demands, whether indoors or out in the field. Obviously, storage in a dehumidified gun safe does not present the same challenges as a pack hunt for black tail along the Pacific Coast. Keep this in mind when selecting the best rust preventive for your application. And, be open to switching between products as your firearms change environments.

 

 

The simple answer is, no one product is best for everything & every part.

 

 

I found it interesting that WD-40 handed so many expensive "gun products" their asses.

 

As for standard lube aside from rust prevention, a thin coat of moly-grease for sliding surfaces & a thin coat of heavy oil with anti-corrosion properties such as automatic transmission fluid for rotating surfaces is the age old wisdom of how to lube a firearm.

[Bvamp 604]

I know Tom prefers mink oil....

 

 

me? Ill use anything from plain old motor oil and transmission fluid to to white lithium to even, yes, hoppes gun oil.

 

 

I think Tom has been testing some new stuff that I want to check out next month when I get up to ohio

[Juggernaut 11,054]

well..... y'all gonna need some KY if ya don't remove the non con links! LOL!!!

 

You can mention by name your fave lube... and even where to get it... but can we please not go against our host's wishes by posting direct links????

 

Thanks....

[RobRez 1,895]

Curious as to what you folks prefer to use to lubricate your rifle or shotty. Been using Remington Gun Oil, but also have a can of Liquid Wrench Dry Lube I've used on other stuff and that seemed to work well. Anyone use dry lube on their firearms?

 

What works best for you?

 

KY.

 

WS

 

To lube your RIFLE not your GUN!LOL!!" This is my rifle, this is my gun. "Break free" for shooting, "KY" for fun!"

[scarbrough68289 76]

While retrieving my Beretta from my nightstand the other day to take out on a job in a risky area of town. I found out my girl had thrown a bottle of KY Silk in the drawer and failed to put the cap on tight. I had to completely disassemble the gun and break out the Hoppe's on my lunch break. That stuff was everywhere.

[G O B 3,516]

Mobil 1. A quart will last you many years. These are AK's and the most common lube worldwide is probably used motor oil. Save the $$$$ lube for AR's and other fussy things.

[yakdung 2,926]

This is it my friend:

 

http://www.silverbulletgunoil.net/

 

 

Yakdung

[patriot 7,197]

I noticed Ballistol wasn't part of their test.... I wonder why.....

[Eric Pate 478]

I used motor oil on my S12 once. It went on nicely and seemed to adhere just fine but after a few days in the rack the oil had run down the gun and accumulated arount the dust cover latch/stock tang/folding block area. There was even some running down the stock. Even after wiping up the excess, the oil would continue to seep out for a few more days. While I'm certain motor oil would work in an emergency, it will no longer be a firearm lube of my choice.

[chevyman097 2,579]

My secret recipe! its the shit!

 

 

 

[shades_of_grey 1,092]

^ Not very helpful.

 

I just use Break-Free CLP. It works well and more importantly also is a mild enough solvent that it can be used to clean the rifle without possibly taking off the factory finish as well as the powder residue.

 

I learned this the hard way, after using what I thought was a pretty innocuous and standard product that'd always worked well for me on other firearms: Hoppe's No. 9. It's a better powder solvent, but it's also strong enough that it took some of the finish off my barrel, (with a little rubbing, not much effort).

[sh00ter 4]

i use sheath as a general wipe down product, for lubricating moving parts though ive always used a "gun oil" of some sorts, last time i needed some i got some M-Pro 7 and am pretty impressed, although it is a fairly light oil it doesnt move around during or after firing - when cleaning after shooting the oil is basically still where i applied it which has gotta be a good thing as it will carry on doing its job.

all i routinely lube is a drop or 2 on rails, bolt shaft and cam

Edited January 23, 2010 by sh00ter

[lakedweller 10]

Gunzilla, Google it Only thing I will use

 

Don't have to go outside to clean to avoid getting HI

Cleans and lubes at the same time....

Edited January 23, 2010 by Lakedweller

[chevyman097 2,579]

^ Not very helpful.

 

I just use Break-Free CLP. It works well and more importantly also is a mild enough solvent that it can be used to clean the rifle without possibly taking off the factory finish as well as the powder residue.

 

I learned this the hard way, after using what I thought was a pretty innocuous and standard product that'd always worked well for me on other firearms: Hoppe's No. 9. It's a better powder solvent, but it's also strong enough that it took some of the finish off my barrel, (with a little rubbing, not much effort).

 

 

lol its just CLP

[Paulyski 2,227]

I noticed Ballistol wasn't part of their test.... I wonder why.....

My guess is it's because they didn't have any lying around.

 

If it was a big conspiracy, they likely wouldn't have shown WD-40 handing the products that cost up to 10 times as much as a can of WD their asses.

 

But I suppose I could be wrong.

Although it's unlikely.

[LubeMonkey 0]

You guys should try this safari charlie gun lube it's greaseless and keeps from collecting dust and other crap. Its amazing how well this spray works!

[rob-cubed 74]

Best for what is the question? There's no single compound that is the best at both lubricating and rust prevention. Everything I've used falls somewhere along that spectrum so I use more than one product.

 

I have found that many automotive products are as good at lubricating as anything marketed as gun-specific, but are much less expensive. Synthetic "high performance" oil like 5w40 makes a great lube. So does ATF but it smells awful. Synthetic axle grease is perfect for rails. But all are poor rust preventatives.

 

Ezeox is an outstanding rust preventative but not a good lube. I use it for wipedowns. WD-40 is a fairly good rust preventative but a poor gun lube and I wouldn't get it anywhere near the breech or barrel as it builds up into a very hard shellac-like coating after a while.

 

Ballistol and CLP come the closest to having a good blend of both qualities, but are perfect at neither. CLP is a decent rust preventative, better than Ballistol, and I use it in bores and as a wipedown. Ballistol is used more as a cleaner in my regiment, along with WipeOut.

[DLT 1,646]

Mobil 1 5w20 or thinner. I made the switch early this year and have found it to be outstanding, especially in my AR's. I no longer need to run them "wet". I just apply mobil 1 on the friction points on the bcg and that's it.

[poolingmyignorance 2,191]

My secret recipe! its the shit!

 

Its VODKA! Doesnt do much for the gun but makes everything else run alot smoother.

[BronCobraJet 80]

Cheap silicone spray. Hose it down and let it work. Clean and hose down again. let dry. Put Rod and reel grease on the sliding rails. Shit will fire for ever and look good doing it. Serious, why spend all that money on all the high dollar stuff? Silicone works good to degrease and clean. When it dries, stuff don't stick and is easier to clean next time. I want a major manufacturer or a person here tell me why silicone isn't the shit. Disprove me. Why waste dollars using solvents, then waiting for it to dry so you can use lubricants. For tens of hundreds of dollars when you can use silicone for pennies. Prove me wrong. Your high dollar oils are shit when you shoot hundreds of rounds. They might last 40-50 rounds. Prove me wrong - not with a sheet of metal left outside overnight. Prove me wrong in a gun.

[Arik 565]

I trow my AK parts in a parts washer at work. It runs regular transmission fluid. A few min in the washer, lightly wipe with a rag and its good to go! I do this mainly when i several rifles to clean. Much faster. 3 sets of bolts, carriers, pistons, springs and gas tubes in about 10min.

[Saiga_rom 91]

hoppes #9 has worked well for me, although honestly ive never used anything other than that